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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Eyrie, Mt Boyce retrobolted! Badly... 2-Jan-2017 At 10:22:42 PM robbio
News like this is disappointing to say the least. It reminds me of how i felt when i first heard the news of Trump's presidential election win in the USA...

I logged onto chockstone shortly before going to work this morning, read the start of the post, got pissed off, and only now have i had a chance to add my two cents.

Yes it's no secret that the blueys is lacking in easier "beginner friendly" routes compared to some other climbing destinations. It doesn't have a Summerday Valley, nor does it have countless easy classics with ample bomber gear like Arapiles, but that's just how it is.... Doing a retro like this is SO not the answer.

A would-be retro bolter needs to realise that to allow the dumbing down or "modernising" of classic historical climbs such as The Eyrie in order to make them more accessable to some, would inevitably make the route less memorable for EVERYONE ELSE capable and wanting to climb it just the way it is. Just because its an easy grade doesn't mean that a shit-hot climber like myself doesn't find the climbing on The Eyre enjoyable, for instance. Like what others have said here, the climb is already popular, and although it is run out at times the guidebook route description mentions this anyways. Any climber beginner or otherwise should take route descriptions like this on board before committing to a climb.

It amazes me how someone would unashamadely go ahead and do such a thing without any consultation of any kind. I am glad Tim has owned up to this and offered to undo his works, but i still shake my head and wonder how things like this happen. How much is arrogance, ignorance, and how much is plain stupidity....?

If anything positive comes out of this discussion, I hope that all would-be retro bolters think twice before doing something stupid like this. The overwhelming disapproval of this act within this thread really speaks volumes about what is not acceptable within our climbing community.

I had nothing new to add to this conversation, but i needed to vent. Complaining about it to my (non-climber) partner just didn't cut it in this case (even though she and i did the aforementioned climb together years ago, and she came so very very close to shitting her pants out of fear whilst seconding me on the final pitch).

Classic climbs leave classic memories. Lets keep the memories alive.

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