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The Eyrie, Mt Boyce retrobolted! Badly... 2-Jan-2017 At 4:41:39 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

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Sorry Wendy but I have to disagree with a lot of that ^ last post, and cite the following...

On 1/01/2017 Martym wrote: (In looking at the Guide)...
>For reference:
>The Eyrie - 12, Four Stars.50m
>A great route with a classic belay stance. Perhaps a little run-out for
>beginners. FA J Worrall. H Ward 1969
>
>Blue Mountains Climbing 2010 edition

Here is some earlier reference that shines an interesting light on the subject climb.

Climbers Guide to Mt Boyce.
Sydney Rock Climbing Club, third(?) edition 1981.

46 pages, about half of which are introduction, history, maps, and photographs, etc, and containing 86 climbs; the first of which went up around February 1967.

From it the following description…

The Eyrie, Gd 12, 50m.
A fine arête climb. Originally done in three pitches, can be split at the cave (The Eyrie – more pleasant) as below, or at the first ledge (more convenient).
The bolt in the cave is not original and is not necessary.
Start: Behind trees and blocks about 9m right of Abseil Gully.
1. 30m. Up balancy slab to large ledge. Up trending left to the arête and up it on the right to the obvious cave. Belay here.
2. 18m. Up left hand side, then across to the nose and up to the top.
John Worrall & Hugh Ward. June 1969.

Other interesting comments in that Guide include the following;…

We have tried to keep the route descriptions accurate.

Information can become inaccurate even before it is published. Don’t expect pitons or bolts, or even trees, to be there just because a book or someone says so.

The meaning of words is not always clear. If the climb is not what you expected from the description the decision to go on is yours entirely. Be prepared to take it as it comes, carry adequate leading gear, and have in mind how you will handle an emergency such as being stranded on an unprotected ledge.

The Mt Boyce cliffline is perhaps best noted for the easy climbs at the western end, which provide the best beginners instruction area in the Blue Mountains.

In addition the cliff offers a range of fine easy, medium and hard climbs on good rock.

As an aside, I also note as part of Mt Boyce early development that SRC set up and maintained a Belay Practice System behind and above the camping cave there, for instructional purposes; and that the first Guides to the area contained much instructional material along with what was considered to be ‘common sense’ content for both leaders and new adherents to the past time of rock climbing.