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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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4-Jul-2016 At 8:52:05 PM Drake

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Thanks for the post techno- lots of good stuff here. I also proudly back up my abseils with an extended device and a friction knot. I started with the petzl method (sling knotted on belay loop, autoblock on leg loop), but now generally use the method described here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfK02bOAhNs ; skip the bit with people riding horses at the beginning..). Basically, extend the device off belay loop with girth-hitched shoulder-length sling and tie prusik backup on belay loop. I find that I can more easily get the desired friction this way.

I skip this backup when it is straightforward and obviously safe (i.e., abseiling off the Eternity for the 37th time), but I use it extensively on multipitch abseils or when it is dark, raining, or otherwise uncertain.