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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 7-Jun-2016 At 10:39:15 PM kieranl
Message
On 7/06/2016 ben wiessner wrote:

>Hey Kieran! I agree that the chalk on this route is visually intrusive.
>But I have to admit that about 98% of that chalk would be mine. I use a
>mammoth amount of chalk, even though it makes routes look ugly, because
>I am selfish and I prefer to use heaps of chalk even if other people despise
>the look of it. Sorry that it looks ugly!
>
It's disappeared considerably since then but what matters about impacts is what actually impacts. I was going to see where the bolts had been, I wasn't expecting the visual impact from the chalk.
>In answer to your question whether I was leading or top roping, I was
>doing both. But mostly top roping. I prefer to top rope rehearse climbs
>until they are within an inch of their lives. Simey thinks I'm very brave.
>
I'm certainly not going to criticise you for that. The only bad style is to lie (or obfuscate) about your style. My only question about removing the bolts, one of which replaced a fixed pin, is how hard it is to lead on-sight. It's Arapiles and it's trad so the grade should reflect the difficulty and seriousness of jumping on it on-sight. If there's a serious chance of grounding out from a few metres up on a nasty landing while trying to fiddle in the first piece then the grade and description should reflect this.

>I think it's a great route, really fun. I'm glad that Wendy rediscovered
>it (because otherwise I probably wouldn't have played on it. And how about
>that: Wendy discovered a route that isn't sh*t!!). I'm glad Duncan took
>the bolts out of it (because I think the route doesn't need them, and is
>better without them). And I'm also glad that I got to see how Doug responded
>when he wandered up to the route and was told that the bolts had been removed
>(because he was so understanding and accepting that I wouldn't have been
>surprised if he had broken out some tibetan prayer flags. Respect!).

Good to hear your view on it. As to Doug's response, those of us who place bolts have to be open to others removing them.

Actually the climb's a bit of both worlds now. The bolt sleeves and, presumably the cones, are still in place, so it would appear that a hypothetical climber could come along, screw in bolts with hangers, lead the climb and then remove the bolts and hangers. No further damage, everyone's options left open.

There are 139 replies to this topic.

 

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