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General Climbing Discussion

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Fully sick bolt wars at Araps 10-May-2016 At 6:10:40 PM timfreddo

Message

On 9/05/2016 Macciza wrote:
>
>If you abseil down a route, discover you can get brass micro nuts in the
>top half of the climb, above some pretty decent gear at 'maybe' halfway,
>some micro-cams meant for 'direct aid only' at the crux, and with the first
>gear at 5m and one other small piece in to protect you from either a nasty
>impact on a fin of rock or the ground; then even after you've head pointed
>it a few times to discover that you can fall off it, slightly less often
>as you can do it, whilst imagining that you are on the sharp end; and then
>racking up the meagre assortment of gear that you will be using, half as
>much as the sport route down the cliff, maybe putting them in some sort
>of order as if it is going to somehow magically help you place it better
>or not fall off; with a pretty good idea of where they might go, even the
>somewhat crucial several kN sideways 4 RP placement manages to disappear
>before your very eyes in the haze of the send ....

Yawn.... Put some bolts in it so it gets more ascents... You don't have to clip them...