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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
Topic
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Date |
User
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belaying seconds on a multipitch |
14-Apr-2016 At 11:00:09 PM |
martym
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Message |
On 14/04/2016 Macciza wrote:
>On 13/04/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>>A second is body weight only, if your belay is so poor that you can't
>>lower a bod off half of it, start downclimbing pronto. Certainly don't
>lead above it
>
>Seriously Mikl? A redirected second when caught is 2 body weights at the
>anchor.
>Why would you hang of two (half body weight on each) and belay off one
>(at double body weight)? Sure if they are well placed bolts in good rock
>it should be fine but it is counter to the general concept of a two piece
>equalised belay setup.
>
>Perhaps the most important thing is to try to be well back from the return
>point as you can be and ideally with your weight opposing the expected
>force i.e. lean back on your attachment. As opposed to being close to the
>anchor and leaning into it.
Sometimes positioning makes it difficult, but in the gym photo provided there is a lot of room for a runner to be placed in the central point of the anchor without impeding the belayer, so iagree in this case no need to place the main load on one anchor point. |
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