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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Sonnie Trotter Goes Down on Tasmania 25-Feb-2016 At 12:17:17 PM johny
Message
Well Gerry thanks for weighing in. Those Boags you northern boys drink like water may have helped you ballast your belaying abilities however they in no way bulk up your ffa argument. Your argument being (as far as I can tell through all the mumbling into your beard) is that as long as you get to the top in any fashion free its a ffa. The only reasoning you give for this other than "climbing is anarchy dont tell me what to do" is that sport climbing and trad climbing are the same except you have the tedious requirement of rapping into a trad route to preplace the gear. Well that is a patently ridiculous argument. I would simply laugh at you if you weren't one of the more prolific new routers in Tassie.

Of course climbing is anarchy... just as long as everyone does what you want, right Gerry? Absolutely no bolts on ben lomond, right? Are you kidding me?!?!? Yeah anarchy. Maybe Ill take your advice and bolt whatever I want.

Yes climbing is anarchy, do whatever you like without altering the rock. But the lame justification "as long as you are honest with the style" is obviously a recognition that you are ashamed of the style. So why bother putting up your hand and bragging about it? Just do it right in the first place. Plus the honesty seams to be conveniently forgotten. The recent 22 with a piece of gear placed on abseil never got mentioned. This is annoying because it is like the guy who supposedly runs marathons in under 3 hours without training, is actually a black belt in jijutso but sworn to never practice outside the dojo or onsights 34 when no ones looking, or puts up SUPER SCARY BOLD routes in the wilderness. It becomes really boring to hear about all these brave routes no one actually leads.

Another reason is safety. These routes are all top-roped to death and yet still pre-placed and the so-called honesty of the shit style is forgotten to be mentioned. So people rock up to a "bold" route and find out that it is not just bold, it is an unprotectable death route. And in this case you would probably just laugh and say "You got Narcoblitzed!". Very annoying, potentially dangerous and no respect for future onsights. These are of course just 2 more reasons on top of the many others I gave.

Look do whatever you want in the shit style you want. You are right. Climbing is anarchy. There are no rules. I base all of my actions on the respect of places, the history and people. If you want to continue to be a laughing stock go ahead. I will act accordingly.

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