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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Solo Aiding a beginners intro 18-Nov-2015 At 11:07:38 AM Jok

Message

>
>Regarding re-belaying during a pitch.
>I prefer to use cotton shoe laces as intermediate prussik attachments.
>They are plenty strong enough to take the weight of the rope (preventing
>backflow through the device), and in the event of a fall will likely break
>rather than try to weld themselves to the leadrope when stretching due
>sheath-glaze friction one against the other

I have not tried aid solo but when I am doing trad lead-solo my preferance is to use thin rubber bands as intermediate attachments. You can fit a hundred on your wrist and prussic them to every third piece. When placing the prussic I make it a few inches lower than the piece, then stretch it up to the QD. This has the effect of keeping a downwards pull on the piece which helps keep it in place and also keeps the rope tight plus it provides tension on the anchour at all times.

>Personally I reckon the Silent Partner is the Rolls Royce of ways to go,

+1 on the SP, it is well worth the price tag.