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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Grid bolting at Windjammer Pt Perp 3-Dec-2014 At 7:00:45 PM Olbert
On 2/12/2014 sbm wrote:
>After a bunch of these conversations, my conclusion is if you don't like
>a bolt, chop it. We can make concerned comments on chockstone til the Point
>falls into the ocean, but action talks. You've got just as much right to
>chop it, as the guy that put it in has to drill it.
>My second conclusion is that new routing in this day an age, when we already
>have lifetimes of established climbing, is selfish. Now, I'm not saying
>people shouldn't do it (hey I do from time to time) but this bullsh-t about
>"developing" routes for "the community" and for "new climbers" and "furthering
>the sport" needs to die. You're doing it for yourself, because you like
>the process for yourself, and so you and your mates can feel cool having
>your own areas that aren't in the guidebook and then feel cool having your
>names in the next edition. Even new "trad" routes usually involve heavily
>modifying the cliffs with "cleaning". We need to stop glorifying it.
>Imagine if a guidebook stripped out all the first ascentionist names,
>and instead put in a list of people who'd been to crag & cliffcare days
>and who had been involved in improving access.

Totally with SBM!

The only thing I have to add is that in NSW there is a limited supply of quality trad routes. There is plenty of sport routes of all grades. Putting up another sport route adds little value to the plethora of sport routes available. Putting a sport route within clipping distance (I'm being generous here) of epicly good trad lines greatly diminishes their value. So by putting in squeeze routes on the windjammer the overall value of climbing goes down.

Also whoever believes you can just not clip bolts on trad routes should go out and actually test that theory!

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