Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Grid bolting at Windjammer Pt Perp
||2-Dec-2014 At 8:21:23 PM
|On 2/12/2014 sbm wrote:
>After a bunch of these conversations, my conclusion is if you don't like
>a bolt, chop it. We can make concerned comments on chockstone til the Point
>falls into the ocean, but action talks. You've got just as much right to
>chop it, as the guy that put it in has to drill it.
>My second conclusion is that new routing in this day an age, when we already
>have lifetimes of established climbing, is selfish. Now, I'm not saying
>people shouldn't do it (hey I do from time to time) but this bullsh-t about
>"developing" routes for "the community" and for "new climbers" and "furthering
>the sport" needs to die. You're doing it for yourself, because you like
>the process for yourself, and so you and your mates can feel cool having
>your own areas that aren't in the guidebook and then feel cool having your
>names in the next edition. Even new "trad" routes usually involve heavily
>modifying the cliffs with "cleaning". We need to stop glorifying it.
>Imagine if a guidebook stripped out all the first ascentionist names,
>and instead put in a list of people who'd been to crag & cliffcare days
>and who had been involved in improving access.
I agree with with sbm, but these developers still need to be made aware that not all climbers agree with what they are doing.
Windjammer wall is not a sport crag, if there is no gear then put a ring in, but putting full lines of rings where there are placements for gear is poor form in keeping in with the style of the wall.
And why do it where there is not much room between routes anyway. At least some of the other additions to the wall like Hate mail and SS minnow and even Not all there keep in with the style of the wall. And they are great testing lines. Bolts where there is no gear and trad placements left so.
Nowra is close enough for you to get your sport fix if that is the style that you prefer to develop.
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