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General Climbing Discussion

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climbing protection 6-Nov-2014 At 3:12:29 PM Timfreddo

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On 5/11/2014 DMWdesign wrote:

>Thanks again Timfreddo
>you seem familiar with this canyon, so another question
>If I were to take some dynamic rope, what length would I need?
>I understand there are two pitches - a vertical, then a traverse
>is there room for 4 people between the two pitches ?

We did arethusa with 2x30m 9mm static ropes. You could probably get away with 1 x50m, but wouldn't want much shorter...
I wouldn't recommend arethusa until you have done a fair few other canyons, or unless you have solid navigation skills.
On the entry we couldn't find a footpad from the end of the fire trail, so ended up going off track (for about 15min) to the left into and following the drainage into arethusa via 2 abseils, the first was on the left of the creek and has a sling, the 2nd (landing in arethusa canyon proper) had no sling so we found a suitable tree and rapped off that (25mish abseil).
On the exit the climb is easy to find, first bit has a bit of a tricky mantle onto a sloping dirt ledge to belay tree, the 2nd bit is a easy traverse with a tricky unprotected step in there somewhere. All pro is ring bolts. Belays are trees. There is room for 4 as you would take them off belay and they can wander around on the ledges the pitches finish on.
We looked at scrambling around on ledges above the canyon as DaveN says, but felt that despite easier climbing, the consequences were much higher if you slipped off. It's either dodgy (but easier) ledges, or the overhanging 6m waterfall (at least you will land in a deep pool if you fall...)

After you get out of alp hues canyon, there is a faiir bit of searching to find steep handlines at numerous small clifflines up to the ridge. Go right or left along the cliff line til you find the obvious handling spots.

Patto hits the nail on the head at the end of his post above about leader needing to be confident.

As for butterbox you need 2x 20m ropes (no shorter). Don't look at the climb at the end as a rock climb, look at it as survival scrambling. Do what you need to make it easier ie pulling/standing on bolts, hauling packs...