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New Climbing Gym In Coburg |
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17-Oct-2014 10:04:13 AM
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Exciting news for the climbing community
Just received is the planning permit to build Australias first international competition standard, sport and speed climbing indoor climbing facility right here in Coburg Victoria. Permission has been granted for the construction of a purpose built building to allow 15m vertical height speed wall and sport climbing walls. Finally, rising climbing stars will have a venue that allows training for all aspects of competition climbing to an international standard. Although climbing missed out as an event in the recent youth Olympics, at least the youth of victoria will have a venue they can train in, while the rest of the world catches up to just how good a sport climbing really is, and finally chooses it for an Olympic competition event. I mean Citius _ Altius _ Fortius, (Faster , Higher Stronger) if this motto does not embrace the requirements of climbers at their limits then what motto can say it better. Stay tuned and hopefully early next year the venue will be open for all. Owned and operated by a climbing family who have been cragging throughout victoria for over 20 years.
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17-Oct-2014 10:48:05 AM
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Excellent! I'll look forward to it!
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17-Oct-2014 2:00:43 PM
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Great work Glen, can't wait to check it out.
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17-Oct-2014 6:12:53 PM
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hi glen,
First of all congrats on the permit... It sounds good.
If you have not already, Can I suggest you visit some international gyms before commencing the build? The states and Europe have world class facilities. It's a shame no one in oz can match them.
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19-Oct-2014 9:24:40 PM
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On 17/10/2014 Kp wrote:
>If you have not already, Can I suggest you visit some international gyms
>before commencing the build? The states and Europe have world class facilities.
>It's a shame no one in oz can match them.
I second this, I was recently in europe and the standards have changed since the last time I lived over there.
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22-Oct-2014 10:42:02 AM
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Thanks for the advise - and i will definitely do so even if the budget limits it to a virtual tour
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22-Oct-2014 3:35:47 PM
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Any bouldering at the new gym??
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22-Oct-2014 3:56:07 PM
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On 22/10/2014 Phil_nev wrote:
>Any bouldering at the new gym??
I heard a rumour that lactic were opening another bouldering dedicated gym in Brunswick... might be some competition?
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22-Oct-2014 4:27:03 PM
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What about for those culinarily inclined; degustation menus per chance?
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22-Oct-2014 5:59:43 PM
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This is great news.
A new gym, potentially a new bouldering gym, and a new outdoor bouldering area like Burnley by Moreland city Council.
Looks like all roads lead to Brunswick/Coburg for climbing!
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23-Oct-2014 8:03:11 PM
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Yeah I heard this rumour too - and hopefully this means the climbing community will have a choice for their training between a quality dedicated bouldering only gym and a quality dedicated climbing only gym.
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10-Jun-2015 10:17:05 PM
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Any news on this?
Is there any progress on the gym?
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13-Jun-2015 2:08:34 PM
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Big news. Construction of the purpose built building has commenced. All going to plan should be opening in summer. It will be the first gym in Australia to have international competition standard sport and speed climbing walls. Website with more info will be launched later in the year when I can be more accurate with potential opening dates.
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13-Jun-2015 9:35:16 PM
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Thats great news for Melbourne and the inner northern suburbs. What height will your walls be?
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14-Jun-2015 2:35:17 PM
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Internal height of 15.5 m. This allows for 15 m high competition speed walls and there will be a lead climbing area with routes over 20m.
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17-Jun-2015 2:03:23 PM
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Hi Glen, thats great news for locals down there. I don't want to burst your bubble but here at Villawood we've had an IFSC standard speed wall (15m, 5 deg overhanging with the standard set of holds) for five years. I'd rate Villawood and also St Peters, where we have 16m height and plenty of long routes as well, as both "world standard" and in fact St Peters would be about #5 in size in North America.
Just setting the record straight!
Hope you get a good builder and designer for the walls, let me know if we can help out.
Mike
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21-Jun-2015 8:48:55 AM
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Thanks mike. I got the info from sport climbing Australia, no dramas though. Maybe now we will be able to get some state of origin style competitions running, with Victoria having a venue to train at.
Cheers, Glen.
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21-Jun-2015 6:23:51 PM
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On 21/06/2015 Cliff wrote:
>I'm curious what others think makes a decent gym. Anyone want to offer
>their thoughts on what makes a world standard gym; and/or what they hope
>to see from the Coburg gym?
>
>EDIT
A good climbing wall designed for climbers and not for occasional thrill seekers, as a wet weather alternative to the playground and childrens parties should be focussing on lead climbing and not top roping. And that means accepting that kids don't need to be 16 to be extremely competent leaders and they shouldn't have to join an elite team or be selected just to practice leading indoors. Top roping set ups should therefore be limited and the majority of routes should be equipped for leading. That would be the single most helpful feature for me.
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21-Jun-2015 8:54:22 PM
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On 21/06/2015 Cliff wrote:
>I'm curious what others think makes a decent gym. Anyone want to offer
>their thoughts on what makes a world standard gym; and/or what they hope
>to see from the Coburg gym?
For me Bayside has it right in terms of layout. A set area for kids and their endless parties while keeping the ropes free at the business end for the more serious climbers. They literally pen the kids up in a cage to climb by themselves. I always appreciate that no matter how busy they may be it pretty much never affects my session.
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21-Jun-2015 10:34:09 PM
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Especially important in Austria, where those little tackers are probably climbing a half dozen odd grades harder than you, or I, or anyone else.
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