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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Ethics: Removing old aid gear to make sport climbs 8-Mar-2013 At 4:31:27 PM hotgemini
Message
Was chatting with some climbing partners of mine and some discussion came up over a route and then grew into a broader discussion of the evolution of climbing ethics.

Now the route in question originally had a number of aid moves, in particular a bolt ladder which makes up the bulk of one pitch.

Now, times have moved on and the bolt ladder pitch goes free at something like 18-21, making it the crux pitch of a climb otherwise graded 11... (note: not 11 A1)

Anyway, here are the ethical questions;
1) Now that the pitch has been freed, do you remove the bolt ladder?
2) If not, what do you do about the state of the bolts, given that 6.5 years ago they looked like this;





Now, for me I think bolt for bolt but perhaps with camoed 3/8 SSGICs, to keep the options open for someone wishing to aid the pitch, but without going to the extent of a fixed hanger or ring every 60cm.

-Adam.

There are 12 replies to this topic.

 

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