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General Climbing Discussion

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Leading rappeller falls unconscious. What to do? 14-Aug-2014 At 6:16:44 AM phillipivan

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You do like creating worst possible case scenarios don't you? Winter, Big Mountains, Big route, lead abseiler unconscious.

KL hit the nail on the head, that being the odds of both returning home alive aren't great considering whatever scenario has got you to that point. Though to make it worse you could have one unconscious member on a simul-rap I suppose...

With regards to getting down the rest of the route once at the victim; surely there was already a plan before you started rapping? Leave nuts and slings, ice threads, perhaps there are bolts or old pins. Unfortunately the kind of route you describe is probably going to have some kind of downclimbing, scrambling or hiking at some point, which will likely not be possible/practical with an unconcious person (and only one other to manage them through it).