Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Sequencing videos/website 2-Jul-2014 At 1:40:04 PM ambyeok

Message

I agree with Sabu it can be difficult nay on bloody impossible to learn good technique in a gym. Some gyms are better than others. I'm no expert and my technique sucks but I'm on a lunch break right now and feel like typing so here are a few pointers:

1. Move slow, if you can't do the moves slow, smooth, precise and purposeful then you've probably got the wrong sequence. Again most gyms go out of their way to make this difficult by setting shitty routes. Yes there is a time and place for desperate lunges but probably not on the less hard stuff right? Added bonus of this is you will get really strong and it will help you maintain a good mental state which will really help your climbing long term.

2. Balance, most of the time you should be able to take one hand and one foot off the wall, hang around a bit and not fall. Again it really depends on the route and most gyms don't help. But chances are that if you have the sequence all messed up and you take a hand and foot off your gonna go spinning off the wall.

3. Move your center of gravity around. Alot. I mean really try out how the extremes feel. Grab some holds then shift your entire hips/torso far left and far right and see how it feels, you will need to bend and straighten legs along the way. Do this before grabbing the next hold and you should figure out where everything should be to grab the hold while in balance and moving slowly and precisely. If you've go the sequence wrong, or the route sucks, or the route is just bloody hard, then you'll probably find yourself a bit stuck and not able to shift much at all.

4. Swap your feet. Ideally you figure out the sequence before you choose which foot to place on a hold. But you'll get it wrong. So reach up slowly and smoothly to the next hold, if it feels awful bring your hand back down, swap your feet, try again. The correct sequence is the one where the move didnt feel like shit (except at some gyms where all moves feel like shit).

5. Finally the best advice for last. Drink a lot of beer and get really fat. I shit you not it really does wonders for your technique and sequencing. A big fat lard arse just aint gonna make it up a route without using a good sequence and heaps of technique. Trust me on this one.

Thats about it for the sequencing advice. But if you need any further tips on how to get fat let me know cause I'm sitting on a treasure trove.