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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New Scary Route at Stacks Bluff 14-Mar-2014 At 7:02:33 AM crazyjohn
Message
Gerry asked me to chime in about his surmounting terror. There are no bolts at Ben and this is the way forward for new routes. I think his headpointing style at Stacks was excellent and the climb is top notch. Its actually not terribly dangerous. He did a great job of cleaning it and the gear is spacey but actually bomber. I thought the climb was as committing as onsighting alot of the 24's at Arapiles. Yeah maybe not many people will climb Surmounting Terror but not many people onsight 24's at araps either.

As far as headpointing goes in general, I think its crap. It works in Ben Lomond and I was happy to take a chance to keep in line with the crag ethic and the adventure! But headpoint routes in bolted areas are pretty wanky.

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