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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New Scary Route at Stacks Bluff 12-Mar-2014 At 12:12:01 PM Tastrad
Message
I write the routes up because I am a guidebook author, and it is important to record history so that history is not rewritten and old climbs are not claimed, retrobolted, renamed, as has happened a few times down here in the past. So what would be an acceptable style in your opinion? Say you had the opportunity and willingness to do a new route at Stacks Bluff. Its 125m high, one and half hour steep uphill walk plus a scree slope. Its an obvious, beautiful line but typically on dolerite faces, there are many huge loose rocks, and the cracks are full of black moss, and from the ground alot of it looks blank and unprotected. What would be your approach to doing the first ascent?

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