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Bolting: Re-imagined

ambyeok

29-Nov-2013
1:19:36 PM

Given all the interest in bolts recently I thought we should share some innovations. You know, ceramic bolts, 3D-printed hangers, that sort of thing.

This is what I installed out at death march wall on my classic test-piece "left of winter". Sorry for the bad diagram. Basically you drill one hole straight and the other from angle to join it then thread in some tatt. Its a bit frictiony on slab routes but really great on overhanging. The dynema is super strong so the whole things should be really bomber. Its cheap and never rusts

Snappy

29-Nov-2013
1:27:47 PM

That sounds....horrible... What happens when it's damaged by UV?

kp

29-Nov-2013
1:29:48 PM

Its been done in tonsai and is complete rubbish after 3 years, when no one replaces them.

Please don't do this.

pecheur

29-Nov-2013
1:52:02 PM

Something similar is done in Tonsai, however they use nylon or lengths of old rope. I suspect this would look better than dyneema here which would clash horrendously with brown / orange.

Dyneema weakens much faster with UV, I'm not sure why you'd use it in this scenario.

I'm assuming troll?

ambyeok

29-Nov-2013
1:52:13 PM

On 29/11/2013 Snappy wrote:
>That sounds....horrible... What happens when it's damaged by UV

I usually just rub some suncream into the dynema when I clip.

On 29/11/2013 kp wrote:
>Its been done in tonsai and is complete rubbish after 3 years, when no
>one replaces them.

I have a patent on this, I will see those tonsai pricks in court.

ambyeok

29-Nov-2013
2:23:29 PM

I call this one treecam (trade marked). It works on the principle that a tree is much harder to remove with outward force than sheer. Treecam has a convenient locking latch on the tree end so it does'nt slide but can be easily removed for clean climbing.

p.s. If I see one of these things pop up in Tonsai there is gonna be one whole farkin shitstorm of litigation.

shortman

29-Nov-2013
2:41:05 PM

Somebodies honeymoon is over and they have free time on the internet again, ;)

james

29-Nov-2013
3:22:24 PM

v threads are for ice...

kieranl

29-Nov-2013
3:35:11 PM

".. this is a Pythagorean thread, designed for rock applications, not to be confused with the v-thread anchor commonly used in ice-climbing", from the user manual.

ambyeok

29-Nov-2013
4:11:49 PM

How are ya shorty. At this rate I will almost have enough time to go climbing again ! ;)

ambyeok

29-Nov-2013
4:21:23 PM

On 29/11/2013 kieranl wrote:
>".. this is a Pythagorean thread, designed for rock applications, not to
>be confused with the v-thread anchor commonly used in ice-climbing", from
>the user manual.

Thats correct, in fact later in the manual it provides further clarification "... whereas the Dark Lord thread should be used in soft rock"

kieranl

29-Nov-2013
4:35:47 PM

... and only with the ring firmly puckered.

shortman

29-Nov-2013
4:52:14 PM

On a rolo ambyeok.....keep 'em comin.

Because u didnt use punctuation with your question I refuse to answer.

Macciza

29-Nov-2013
9:59:12 PM

On 29/11/2013 Snappy wrote:
>That sounds....horrible... What happens when it's damaged by UV?

The holes are drilled inside the rock so they get shade most of the time and so UV isn't a problem . . .

ChuckNorris

29-Nov-2013
10:34:00 PM

The way forward is to drill 12mm downward slanting holes, and stick a big fcuking magnet in the deepest part of the hole. Then the happy punters can come along with there preclipped 10mm bolt and stick it in the money slot and hey presto they're safe (shearforcewise).

Eduardo Slabofvic

29-Nov-2013
10:42:15 PM

On 29/11/2013 ambyeok wrote:
>
>innovations. You know, ceramic bolts, 3D-printed hangers, that sort of
>thing.
>
>

Miniature large hadron colliders that use massive amounts of energy (and cash) to make the leptons, and quarks, and photons, and hardons, and bon bons interact at the subatomic level thus becoming one with what ever substrata happens to be there. It has a small ring that can't be clipped with normal biners (only lightweight sport climbing biners will work). They have an on and off switch, and come in a range of really rad colours.

Send a cheque for $50 made out to Eduardo's Big Gnob Pty Ltd for details.

Batteries not included

martym

2-Dec-2013
1:08:41 PM

On 29/11/2013 Macciza wrote:
>On 29/11/2013 Snappy wrote:
>>That sounds....horrible... What happens when it's damaged by UV?
>
>The holes are drilled inside the rock so they get shade most of the time
>and so UV isn't a problem . . .

Assuming it's a popular route, you could just rotate the dyneema every week or so, distribute the sun damage evenly.

There are 17 messages in this topic.