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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Carrot failure @ Muline 14-Nov-2013 At 5:59:12 PM ambyeok
Message
On 14/11/2013 The good Dr wrote:
>On 14/11/2013 patto wrote:
>>Fixed hangers and bash-ins do seem like a recipe for disaster.
>
>Attaching a hanger to a carrot, particularly on steep routes can be problematic
>when the hanger has the possibility of acting as a lever. There are situations
>where lowering off steep routes may put an outward force on the carrot
>as the draw swings outwards and is put under a varying amount of tension
>and/or cyclic loading during lowering.
>
>In the end, the reason carrots were used by most of the installers was
>cost, which has been confirmed in many conversations. There has been a
>revisionist take on this ascribing to it an aesthetic purity, which is
>mostly a nonsense rewriting of history.
>
>I know HB takes a lot of care and pays attention to what he is doing when
>placing fixed protection. Neil's experience demonstrated that the concept
>has hidden variables that even the most zealous installer is unable to
>control. The same can be said for the bolt on Body Heat (its installer
>incidentally told me recently that the freeze thaw cycles at Buffalo may
>be a problem with regards to bash in carrots over even the short to medium
>term).

Oh yeah? Well you're a bash in carrot.

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