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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Carrot failure @ Muline 14-Nov-2013 At 3:42:57 PM grantoss
On 14/11/2013 chalkischeap wrote:
>Just to clarify, many of the bolts in question are bash in stainless carrots
>in overhanging rock WITH FIXED HANGERS - see Neils photo on the first post
>e.g Path of Yin, Desert Rose, After Midnight, Serpentine etc
>The fixed hanger, tight up against the rock creates an excellent lever
>to loosen the bolt.
>Many people have climbed these routes assuming that the bolts are expansions.
>All you see is a fixed hanger and a hexagonal head - an easy mistake to
>make but it could cost you your life.
>Which one is the most dangerous ticking bomb?
>- Path of Yin bolt 4 (groundfall when the bash-in bolt pulls out of the
>65 degree overhang, horrible landing onto rock shelves)
>- Desert Rose - super classic, very popular, dodgy bolts, at least the
>ground is flat, you might get away with paraplegia.
>- Serpentine pitch 2 first bolt (factor 2 onto the belay, serious for
>leader and belayer)
>- Serpentine pitch 2 last bolt (often used as a lower off - stripping
>all the gear below, bolt failure would cause a ground fall from high up
>on Taipan!)
>I'm interested to see your list Neil, might cause a few of us to shudder.

yep those ones you've mentioned on serp are scary as fark

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