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General Climbing Discussion

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Carrot failure @ Muline 14-Nov-2013 At 2:29:55 PM sbm

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I'm kinda confused at exactly what M9 and Macca are trying to say here.

If you want to make the argument that you can equip a route however you like and no-one is obligated to climb it if they don't want to, ok I get that.

If you want to argue that hangerless bolts are their own experience that should be preserved and not blindly done over with rings/Us, ok I get that too (and actually agree to an extent), although it's a mighty pain in the b to pull apart my rack and find suitable biners and borrow enough bolt plates.

If you want to make the argument that people should evaluate fixed protection with their own eyes and experience before they use it, ok...once you explain how I can evaluate a bolt that experience has shown looks the same whether it's good or not.

If you want to argue that carrots do work in some circumstances, yes they do, so do pitons, but you are going to have to argue mighty hard that they aren't the WORST bolting system on balance that you can choose today. Ok, I should be use mild steel because the rust expansion is a feature?!? Now that sure as hell isn't an engineering principle.

I accepted that carrots still had a place in ground-up new routes on sandstone...until I saw mikl's test results for 8mm screwbolts (that you can buy ready to go in Bunnings) holding 20kn in tension.