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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Good safety thread 16-Sep-2013 At 10:04:00 PM huwj

Message

On 11/09/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>I've heard of people clipping into the long tails on an EDK, but didn't
>die

I did this last year, descending from a big day in the mountains. Eighteen hours after leaving the hut, it was pitch black, cold and we were pretty screwed. I tied an euro with long tails, clipped one of the correct strands and the tail of the other. Wind was howling, vis was shit, the rope was blowing everywhere...

I don't think tying two euros with short tails solves the problem. Two euros are no safer than one. And even if they were, no matter what you do there is always scope to fvck it up.

I always use the same setup – choose a tried-and-tested system that makes sense to you, stick to it and always check everything twice. Don't get distracted at the point of committing and stay clipped to the anchor until you're fully set-up and you've bounce-tested the system.