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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
post ewbank grading suggestion from the armchair 7-Jul-2004 At 5:16:15 PM rhinckle
Message
On 7/07/2004 nmonteith wrote:
>The strength 'grade' would need to be open-ended wouldnt it?

and then tiny increments would make bogus new grades.
and neil, the first number is the important one, modified by the next two.
(ie un unbelievably hard 17 probably isn't a 17 )

and for prev post
really its
skill.strength.safety
so i think that a high number for good pro (safety) is consistent.
there is a quality factor here
but you have made me think
(oh no!)
i see it now! strenuousness needs a letter (E, nothing, or H)
so let's think:
skill.strength/safety.
(i.e. a 16 which is 12 climb with a 16 crux move and good pro would be 8.E3)
(a 16 climb that is more or less consistantly 16 with good pro would be 8.3)
(a 16 climb that is strenuous with good pro = 8.H3)

and hey, looks like more numbers, but the modifiers are a small range, and there are fewer choices in the first number.

ok it is complicated at first.
but i'll keep stirring this pot for a while


There are 19 replies to this topic.

 

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