Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

She sells sea shells - Point Perp 7-Mar-2013 At 1:53:29 PM mattbrooks

Message

I have spoken to both Damo and Rick and the others about this and thie issue seems to be not the establishment of new routes, but the new lines over the top of established ones. There is no reason why these two styles of routes cant exist side by side in harmony and in fact they have done so already for many years at Pt Perp.

I had an interesting conversation recently trying to explain the Australian Version of trad climbing to a pommy. Ie gear where possible and a carrot to reduce near death runouts! In the UK trad is trad, wires, cams or nout. Try stopping mid crux on a E7 to place a No 1 RP. A hernia inducing experience not to be missed by anyone, placing gear mid crux an experience you must have once in your climbing career .

I bolted a new, reasonably hard and long project down there last week. A long way from anything else and had to use alot more sky hooks to drill than made me comfortable way above the sea as the gear that I was hoping would be there was non existant, the breaks visible from the bottom turned out to be closed!!!!!.

Bolting can be just as scary as runout trad on the right route.

MB