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8-Feb-2013 8:20:15 PM
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I started climbing in the late 80's and never really pushed the grades to the level that i would of liked, but i was happy the climb high 'teens to low 20's if the climb suited my style.
Enjoyed running things out (if that is actually possible) just like the climbers of the 70's 80's i read about when i started, even did some long free solos (Now they are exciting). But in the last 4 years i have probably only climbed 4 times due to hand & back injuries (maybe smoking to much pot) and with that came a frustration and fear - confidence kaput.
So what better to regain the vigour and confidence, i went back to Araps for the first time in 7 years. But sadly i climbed like crap (bad bad and sometimes a numb foot probably didn't help) and had trouble ridding myself of 'the fear' and so unable to relax and enjoy the climbing, which is frustrating as there are sooo many great climbs i haven't done yet.
So i'm still at the crossroads. What should i do? Any comments welcome (maybe!?!)
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8-Feb-2013 8:38:57 PM
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You clearly cant cut it anymore so you should sell your rack to me. Especially if you have a $50 #4 Camalot.
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8-Feb-2013 9:42:46 PM
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Where is the option 'buy a drill and retrobolt the classics'?
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8-Feb-2013 10:11:00 PM
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On 8/02/2013 Eduardo Slabovic wrote:
>You clearly cant cut it anymore so you should sell your rack to me. Especially
>if you have a $50 #4 Camalot.
>
I have a $50 #6 Camalot if you want it...
~> It has only been used once.

Heh, heh, heh.
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8-Feb-2013 10:12:48 PM
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Just stop smoking before a climb. I find it does wonders.
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8-Feb-2013 10:19:28 PM
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Discover the joys of Ibuprophen, and you'll be fine
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8-Feb-2013 10:37:09 PM
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Go back to basics and camp in the pines for a while and climb with whoever. It will/may come back.
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8-Feb-2013 11:23:16 PM
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easy climbs with fun people
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9-Feb-2013 1:08:32 AM
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On 8/02/2013 shortman wrote:
>Just stop smoking before a climb. I find it does wonders.
That's my advice as well.
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9-Feb-2013 8:19:33 AM
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On 8/02/2013 Eduardo Slabovic wrote:
>You clearly cant cut it anymore so you should sell your rack to me. Especially
>if you have a $50 #4 Camalot.
>
I do have a #4 Camalot, but i not selling nothing. I'm only 45 and should have another 10+ years of climbing left in me
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9-Feb-2013 8:33:23 AM
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On 8/02/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Where is the option 'buy a drill and retrobolt the classics'?
Yeah, i knew there was an option missing. I don't mind placing natural gear, it's fun and makes you think a bit more. I placed about a dozen pieces in D Minor last week including 3 at the final bulge !?! (which shows where my head is at the moment) Even though i didn't get on the sharp end for the rest of the week. i had fun belaying/seconding a few newish to trad climbers and gave them a few tips.
I'm travelling into NSW for the next couple of weeks and then i reckon i will head back to Araps mid march
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9-Feb-2013 9:11:59 AM
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My story is pretty similar to yours. Been climbing for years but am pretty crap and have given up on pushing grades. Don't have much time to climb due to work and kids. What I find most satisfying these is doing easy multi-pitch stuff. A nice day out in a beautiful place and a feeling of accomplishment at the end of it... or just do a canyon.
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10-Feb-2013 10:28:18 PM
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I'm a similar age to you. Came out of retirement after building a house and having kids and I'm climbing bigger grades than I used to. I don't think I'm as strong as I was in my 20's. I put it down to regular gyms sessions, more info available to learn technique, internet and books and probably climbing shoes as apposed to climbing boots.
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11-Feb-2013 7:25:20 AM
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I did something similar on D minor about a month ago. My climbing partner, who is 18, puts in half the protection that I do. Being 48 and a health professional, I have seen alot more injuries and dead people than he has. A certain amount of fear is healthy, it keeps you sharp.
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11-Feb-2013 9:25:37 AM
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On 8/02/2013 mikllaw wrote:
>easy climbs with fun people
What he said. Don't worry about the grades, find a lot of long easy stuff (I believe Araps has a couple...) and just enjoy them.
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11-Feb-2013 10:36:56 AM
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On 8/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 8/02/2013 Eduardo Slabovic wrote:
>>You clearly cant cut it anymore so you should sell your rack to me. Especially
>>if you have a $50 #4 Camalot.
>>
>I have a $50 #6 Camalot if you want it...
>~> It has only been used once.
>
>
That's unreal - what's the story behind that cam??
Did you back your car over it or is that from a horizontal gone wrong?
>Heh, heh, heh.
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11-Feb-2013 10:40:08 AM
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On 11/02/2013 martym wrote:
>On 8/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>On 8/02/2013 Eduardo Slabovic wrote:
>>>You clearly cant cut it anymore so you should sell your rack to me.
>Especially
>>>if you have a $50 #4 Camalot.
>>>
>>I have a $50 #6 Camalot if you want it...
>>~> It has only been used once.
>>
>>
>
>That's unreal - what's the story behind that cam??
>Did you back your car over it or is that from a horizontal gone wrong?
>>Heh, heh, heh.
Horizontal? Look at the damage....not that I have any idea.
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11-Feb-2013 11:21:41 AM
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On 11/02/2013 shortman wrote:
>On 11/02/2013 martym wrote:
>>On 8/02/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>>On 8/02/2013 Eduardo Slabovic wrote:
>Horizontal? Look at the damage....not that I have any idea.
I meant it looks like it's been wrongly placed horizontally, ie flatside up - and then weighted and the cam has bent under pressure... sorry i thought the sarcasm would translate in text...
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11-Feb-2013 11:32:48 AM
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Yep, what marty said. Some people don't seem to understand levers.
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11-Feb-2013 11:37:01 AM
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A friend tried to juggle cams on the lip of Buffalo gorge and dropped it. M9 went and found it.
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