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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Sport climbers - why don't you climb trad? 27-Jan-2013 At 3:48:20 PM tor.lattimore
Message
People who learn to climb at the Arapiles have it easy. No-where else can you have such a fun day out, climbing so many pitches of grade 12 bliss while learning to place gear. It's about as close to sport climbing as you can get while placing gear. After learning to place gear there you can move on to less forgiving crags with fewer easy routes and still have a good time.

In the ACT, the closest trad cliff is Boroomba, where the climbs are more spread out and even the few easier climbs are harder than Bard. Pt Perp is great, but not a good place to learn. The bluies are already 4 hours away and even there the low-grade trad routes just aren't as accessible/good as they are at the Arapiles.

Searching for 3-star trade routes with grade <= 15 on the Australian route register leads to 10 climbs scattered around NSW (2 with the danger sign and mostly single pitch). The same search in VIC leads to 19 routes, mostly multi-pitch and within walking distance of each other.

All of this leads to a huge divergence in skill level between trad and sport climbing (because of the gym), which means people suddenly have the choice between a good sport route, of which there are many, or an "ok" trad route that will take much longer to find. No surprise that most new climbers, including myself, usually opt for the former.







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