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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Ethics 29-Sep-2012 At 4:07:21 AM Olbert

Message

On 28/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>~> Please remind me why you climb again?
>I like doing cool moves on interesting holds, made of beautiful clean
>rock, up soaring lines in stunning locations.

This route looked beautiful, clean and it was certainly a soaring line! (No interesting holds though, only a crack). I wasn't actually planning to do this route, I was actually planning to do a much easier route nearby but when I saw this line, a 45m soaring corner crack at 5.11+ (a grade I hadn't yet attempted at the Creek), I couldn't say no. This line called to me. It was also a 3 star route (out of 4 - and 4 stars were reserved for routes like Supercrack).

When I got on it I realised that it was completely covered in a thick layer of dust, probably due to the fact they had a wet summer and this was very early season for this sunny crag. I was too inspired though and kept climbing. I fell off on the crux (thin hands) because every single move had to be cleaned of dust first. I reckon I would have shitted in the onsight if it was clean, and I did cruise it on toprope afterwards. Although I wouldn't wanna do it again, I'm kinda glad I did it in a way.