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General Climbing Discussion

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Some more World Climbing news 2-Jun-2004 At 11:59:34 AM Pei
Whilst procrastinating study for my exams, I came across this little bit of local news, Pat Turner posted this on the CAWA website (

>Long standing trad project ticked
>Hey all,

>well after just over a year of efforts Ive finally ticked my long standing trad project up at Kalbarri down near the amphitheatre, in a new area called 'The Den'. (which is essentially the very steep wall underneath akira etc)

>The route is called 'The Dragon' and Ive given it 32. It is entirely on gear but has the convenience of loweroffs at the end of the route as it finishes on a ledge half way up the wall. All in all it is more or less a roof and is around 35 metres long. It takes gear from the Wild Country Z cams, right up to around size 3.5 WC or equivalent, but is predominantly cams. for the second crux and for the start you really should use the Z2 and Z1 otherwise there is minimal gear.

>the route itself starts at the right end of the big cave up sandy crap where you climb through a small rooflet till a good rail can be reached. Climb left along this rail for about fifteen metres till it runs out and the very difficult, very runout crux begins. after the crux continue across for about a metre than shoot straight up to a jug where good pro is found. a small lunge has you on two slopers and a jug in sights. traverse left from the jug with an abandoned birds nest in it, along a second but less difficult crux. at the end of the traverse, climb straight up towards the chains on jugs.

>So to sum up...

>'The Dragon' is in the 'Den' ( new area which is the steep wall you cant miss down at the amphitheatre). It is a very steep, and very pumpy, 35metre 32 (ish) that is entirely on gear. the gear ranges from Wild Country Z1 right up to WC 3.5 or equivalent, and has loweroffs at the end of the route. Gear is great overall except at the main crux where it is a bit runout.

>Thats it... Enjoy


Would this be one of the hardest trad routes in Australia, if the grade is correct? Congrats to Pat for the send!

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