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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
||Friday, 10 February 2012 At 6:15:05 PM
One Day Hero
|On 10/02/2012 Wendy wrote:
>I agree with Damo.
>Fûck, I can't believe I said that.
Oh.......how boring! :) Here, let me introduce a bit of stuff to disagree about.
>This terribly painful program of
>just going climbing has actually got me to climbing trad in the mid 20s.
Hmmmm, do Wendy and I climb mid 20's? Well, it kinda depends on your defenition of "climbing"
Here's a bit of a rundown of the climbing me and Wendy have done together over the last year;
-a couple of days at Taipan......as I recall we both got pounded in the arse by the respective mid 20's routes we were trying
-a soft mid 20's route at araps which Wendy dogged the gear into, then ticked as a sport route....I ticked it as a sport route by copying exactly what Wendy had done, thus negating any need for thinking.
-I tried to onsight a classic 24 and got so pumped that I couldn't see anymore, got scared cause I'd kooked the gear a bit so downclimbed, whimpered, and called for take.......Wendy refused to lead after my display, so tried it on toprope.
-Wendy directed me to the softest 24 at the mount (its good to know locals), so that I could onsight something that is officially in the right grade range, but its really only 22.
-We got on a classic 26 which we'd both ticked previously. Wendy went up to run the gear in and was unable to do so, I went up to run the gear in and got so pumped that I had to sit on the rope and pant for about half an hour before I could dog my way to the top.
-We went up to Skyline walls to try a mini 26. The start looked hard and gearless and the landing is as bad as it gets........we elected to rap the gear in. Once the gear was in, we figured that there was a toprope set up already so we might as well use it. Once we'd worked out every move in minute detail on toprope, we went and recruited more climbers to join the siege. Once we had a big enough siege posse and a forest of gear and long slings in place, we both gloriously ticked the route :/
-Wendy came to canberra. I showed her a classic 24 which I had finally done (in quite bad style) after years of being too scared to even try it. Wendy declined to lead it although she strolled up the topropable top half like it wasn't even there.
-We laid siege to an oldschool grade 22 crack, Wendy eventually ticked it nicely (after 2 days), I was unable to do so and had to resort to 'ticking' it on Wendy's pre-placed gear.
Anyway, all tremendous fun, and for most of those routes thats probably how most of the 'ascents' are recorded. However, not exactly cruising mid 20's in the style which bigchris imagines himself climbing some day.
My criteria on style is always; "What would you say if you saw someone pulling this shit on a grade 15?" And for me and Wendy (and most other climbers) on stuff in the mid 20's.........you'd shake your head in dismay!
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