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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Big falls on granite slab routes 31-May-2004 At 12:16:02 PM deadpoint
Message
Hi Ya Max,

Probably saw you there yesterday, we were the group with the 8 year old kid. Eamon had his first outoor climbing trip - he was stoked. He did two grade 7ish top rope ascents, he was particulary good on the slabs.

The older farts did Scumbag (19) - just brilliant with plenty of gear and bolts to keep you happy.

For those who don't know, Entropy is a little more than runout, the whole pitch has no gear, we are talking about 100m fall factor 2 onto the belay. Rope stretch would leave you kissing the daisies.

As far as runnouts go, you must have being trying hard to not place gear, I did Equilibrium about a month ago and had 10 pieces on the first pitch. On the second pitch you can slot in a few wires under the edge of the flake in addition to the two bolts.
Third pitch has a much gear as you want under edge of the overalap.



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