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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Grading 30-May-2004 At 9:30:45 PM CJ

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In terms of grading here in Oz, I think its the first acentionists job to assess a routes grade in terms of a climber reading the guide, fronting up and doing the route ground up (on-sight), regardless of the number . Many may disagree with me on this, I believe this is the way, historically climbs have been established here in Oz.
An example may be HB's route Serpentine. Graded 31 by Malcolm but subsequently downgraded (rationalised) to 29. Why? Because most people probably use pre placed gear, pre inspection and other tactics to do the route, rather than a ground up ,placing all gear on lead style as Malcolm did on the 1st ascent (and writing the grade / description for a similar style of ascent).

What are others opinions on grading of first ascents... onsight or redpoint grade???