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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Grading 28-May-2004 At 10:36:15 PM CJ

Message

EFP,

In regard to your specific question, Australian grades are onsight grades not redpoint as is the case in France. There was an interesting article somewhat related to this in a copy of On The Edge (UK) last year discussing sport climbing tactics. A route grade en France assumes you know the sequence, any hidden holds, rests etc. etc. So with this in mind a French 7a will most likely seem harder than an Aussie 24/5.
The inherant discrepancy between the two grading systems, and the often practiced tactics that are creeping into Australian climbing (as you have described), perhaps go a long way to explain why there is so much more debate and conjecture as to what is the real grade of climb xyz? Understanding the history and background to each system helps keep the whole thing in perspective. Rationalising climbs, as seems to be the creeping trend undermines the inherant strength and simplicity of the Australian system.