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General Climbing Discussion

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The most arsekicking gr22 in the galaxy 16-Dec-2011 At 9:21:05 AM Tastrad

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Boy Racer is the hardest 22 I've done at Araps - as hard as some of the 23's. Onsighted Incipience - technical and run-out but not too bad. If you're talking about the galaxy, the most arsekicking pitch at the grade is the Harding Slot on Astroman at Yosemite. On the topo it says 11b chicken wing dyno into slot then a 5.10 squeeze. For me it might as well have been 15a - I jumared it and normally unflappable, smooth climbing Ingvar Lidman took 2 hours on it and it totally kicked his arse. Also has anyone ever been back to old routes you did first ascent of, thinking you were a better climber than you were in the 70,s or 80,s, then got your arse kicked? There is a 21 I put up in 1982 with crap boots and crap gear and after cleaning it, did it first shot. Went back 15 years later, with better gear and supposedly fitter, and couldn't get up it. Its at least 25. Several other routes I established in the early 80,s at grade 22 have been revised up to 24 because they kicked my arse on the attempted alzheimers repeat.