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General Climbing Discussion

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Seating trad gear vs making your partner happy 17-Nov-2011 At 1:35:51 PM cruze

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I am deep into a long and tiring education program with my regular climbing partner - my wife. I have devoted myself to teaching her how to become better at removing gear that has become "at one" with the cliff.

At first I used to place bad gear and yank on it for a few minutes to make myself feel better about it. Whilst initially frustrating to remove, my wife learnt my ways and developed a sixth sense for how I must have placed the gear and how to unlock the secrets to its removal. Over the years my gear placements became better and my confidence in them had increased so much so that it had become far too easy for my partner to remove the gear. And so I entered phase three of the education process - the welded blind placement. The constriction so deep and perfect that angels sing as I yank the placement home. Alas I am far too good a teacher, for my wife seconds tirelessly, unafraid from hanging midcrux off outstretched tendons, a gentle breath there, a slight twist here, a realignment of posture there. Not a single piece has been lost.

This process has, however, brought me full circle to entering into my wife's apprenticeship. For years she has plotted revenge whilst hanging above the void mumbling to herself about how inconsiderate I am, and she has learnt my tricks and secrets.

Unfortunately I am not blessed with her patience...