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General Climbing Discussion

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Double, twin or single rope ...? 20-May-2004 At 11:10:20 AM M

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On 19/05/2004 shmalec wrote:
>Hmmm….good to see such a humble group of contributors.
>
Im not sure quite what you mean or if you include yourself in this group.

Using physics to describe a climbing fall maybe interesting to some but it is not really very useful for most climbers. The dynamic factors, friction non linear elongation etc are difficult if not impossible to calculate. most physics describes ideal situations which climbing is not. The fall factors generated in testing are also not very relavent to actual climbing. Every bit of stretching and slipping reduces the peak force on the top anchor belayer and climber. If the force is higher there will be more streching and slipping thereby reducing the peak force.

In the interests of keeping it simple and accurate
two ropes clipped together will not stretch as far as a single rope. This will result in a higher force on the top anchor. How much higher will depend on a host of factors such as slippage through the belay device.
I am not going to comment on the friction between the two ropes melting the ropes except to say its worth bearing in mind.

Not taking advice from a climbing forum is an excellent piece of advice, except that its advice on a climbing forum so you should treat it with sketicism.

Seriously though, anything posted on a forum or that you are taught by another climber for that matter should be treated with some sketicism. Get you information from lots of sources, make sure you understand what you are learning and make up your own mind about what advice you are going to take. I also believe a general understanding of how dynamic forces are involved in arresting falls is useful knowledge for any climber.