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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Double, twin or single rope ...? 19-May-2004 At 4:05:06 PM M
Message
\ a good sized fall (about 6-7m) onto a single double rope (the second
>rope didn't come into play). There was about 10-15m of rope out, so what's
>that, about a 0.5 fall factor.

This also does not take into account dynamic factors such as slippage through the belay device and movement of the belayer which further reduce the forces on the rope.

I have always wondered why double ropes were only tested at 50kg when in practice a lot of falls will only weight one rope. Its obvious that they dont need to take as many falls as there is some redundancy and some falls will weight both ropes. Also in practice ropes dont wear out because of high factor falls which are pretty rare. maybe manufacunlturers feel that a low number of falls at a higher rating would concern people without reason

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