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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolting at Piddo 12-May-2011 At 11:53:09 AM Andrew_M
Message
On 12/05/2011 Wendy wrote:

>What, Finale, Tarn, Ardeche, Valais? The only really easy stuff I can
>think of was the valley crags around Chamonix - which I will give you were
>absolutely packed, and quite often with guiding companies.

Bingo! - you're quoting crags that high level climbers from Oz will visit on a road trip. There's lots of less visited crags without english language guidebooks.

>Where are all these mythical 4cs?

Just off the top of my head...crags with at least some, often lots, of easy bolted leads in that range:

Calanques, Mont st Victoire, Sisteron, Verdon Rive Gauche, Gorges de la Jonte, Riglos and yes the crappy slabs in Chamonix.

Back to the original post...whether piddo should have bolts in it or remain a dedicated trad crag is one question, whether it would be good to have some low grade sport leads at other crags is an entirely different question. Why can't there be both? In Europe there are also huge areas with a dedicated trad ethic that don't have english language guidebooks and are also off the road trip radar.

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