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Topic Date User

DogFace December Decathalon 21-Dec-2009 At 8:22:26 PM Mish Mash

Message

On 21/12/2009 timfreddo wrote:
>another option for you is to aid echo crack...
>have to climb the first 2 pitches free (14 and 19). Then the rest is non
>stop crack... crux for aid would prob be the first 5 meters and last 5
>meters... other than that, its all #3 camalots.
>Grab as many as you can and give that a bash, the bomber gear will help
>get the system sorted.
>
>Good aid routes at narrow neck are echo Jr (1 pitch bolt ladder), and
>Katchendangle 2 or 3 pitches, maybe some gr 16 free on the top pitch.
>
>Have fun :)
>Timbo.
>

Thanks for that Timbo (I was one of the other guys fighting about on gigantor, I think my effort to aid
every move on the first pitch was a considerable larger amount of effort than if I had the guts to crack
a few free moves, hurrah for blind placed black tricams)

Getting into the aid is hard as all the attractive lines I want to free. I had already had a shot at freeing
echo crack which was fine except for the the getting into the crack part on pitch 3 which required a
little of the french style climbing. I find I want to be on steep and hard lines that i could never dream of
freeing for aid but then I find my aiding speed is just not up to it! Practise practise I guess, I think your
suggestion of running laps at piddo might be the order of the day.