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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
8,6mm half ropes in the blueys?
Joshw
12-Jan-2016
11:10:06 AM
What are peoples thoughts on using a set of 8,6mm half ropes in the blueys (multi trad)?
Is 8,6mm (38% sheath) too small a DIA given the coarse, sharp nature of the rock?

I've used singles as doubles in the past (9,8mm w/ 40% sheath) in the blueys and a set of 8,6mm half ropes (38% sheath) at Araps, though, ironstone, sharp corners and coarse rock play less on my mind down there.

Would love to hear an opinion from those with experience.

Cheers in advance!

Josh.
mikllaw
12-Jan-2016
11:19:04 AM
I've got a set of 8s and a pair of 9s and they both seem fine.
I use the 9s on trad when I'm using them independently (double ropes),and the 8s as twin ropes (clipped together as a single).

in theory using them, as doubles should mean they run on different paths and should give redundancy

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12-Jan-2016
1:44:12 PM
One of the great things about using double rope technique is the added safety they provide in climbing on potentially rope damaging routes, no matter the location or rock medium. I love my doubles and use them whenever possible.

Having said that, poor rope management (and bad luck!), can still ruin a rope no matter the technique / rope diameter / age of it / etc...

maxdacat
12-Jan-2016
3:38:15 PM
I use my 8.5mm halfs now and then and they're fine. Have also used 8mm and they are fine for climbing but can be a bit slick on the abseil in.
martym
12-Jan-2016
4:29:17 PM
I've been climbing on the same set of Mammut Genesis I bought in 2008. I don't know that Blueys sandstone is any worse for your ropes than sharp limestone; English grit or stiff granite...
Jayford4321
12-Jan-2016
5:25:35 PM
On 12/01/2016 Joshw wrote:
>What are peoples thoughts on using a set of 8,6mm half ropes in the blueys
>(multi trad)?
>Is 8,6mm (38% sheath) too small a DIA given the coarse, sharp nature of
>the rock?
>
>I've used singles as doubles in the past (9,8mm w/ 40% sheath) in the
>blueys and a set of 8,6mm half ropes (38% sheath) at Araps, though, ironstone,
>sharp corners and coarse rock play less on my mind down there.
>
>Would love to hear an opinion from those with experience.
>
>Cheers in advance!
>
>Josh
M
Do gooder namby pambyism been posted so far.
Cut 2 tha chase peeps.

If Ur shit scared of what will happen 2 ur rope then don't fall.
One Day Hero
12-Jan-2016
8:33:42 PM
On 12/01/2016 gnaguts wrote:
>If Ur shit scared of what will happen 2 ur rope then don't fall.

Some rock is knifey as fuch, and only a retard would have their rope running over that stuff without any concern. I like the queensland solution, get out there with a grinder and blunten things a bit.

If you're on long trad routes which aren't too hard for you, two skinny single ropes will barely slow you down. Certainly feels more comfortable for the seconds when you're climbing in a group of three.



joshw
13-Jan-2016
10:24:43 AM
Appreciate the input fellas. Even the to the point "harden the fk up and don't fall sentiment"!

The smaller DIA's and many years off the rock gave me a bit of tunnel vision I think and I hadn't stopped to consider the redundancy that comes with 2 ropes on different paths.

Cheers!

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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