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 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Author
Marking middle of rope- what to use
DMWdesign
5-Dec-2014
9:59:20 AM
On 18/11/2014 Drake wrote:
>>I have always use Beal Rope Marker on Edelrid ropes and have recently
>>applied same to a Tendon rope.
>
>I would be moderately concerned about doing that:
>
>Quoted from Patto's post above:
>"Tests done by the UIAA Safety Commission and by some rope manufacturers
>have shown that rope marking with liquids such as those provided by felt-tipped
>pens can be dangerous, even with those markers, sold specifically for marking
>ropes. The test results showed a decrease up to approximately 50% of the
>rope strength"

Below is feedback and comments I received re rope markers from the importers:
Edelrid policy makes sense – they are not going to approve or warranty unknown or other manufacturer’s products on their ropes.


Outdoor Agencies P/L – importers of Edelrid ropes

“No it is NOT ok to use the Beal Tiflex Rope Marker on any Edelrid Dynamic ropes.
The findings of the UIAA study are correct , these types of pens can have a dramatic effect of the dynamic nature of the ropes over time and effect the way it performs in real life.
Edelrid does NOT guarantee the pen would NOT effect there ropes adversely if used on there dynamic ropes”.

“The only official statement from Edelrid on this subject is going to remain;

"Edelrid Ropes are not to be marked with any contaminants after they have been manufactured in order to retain full warranty for strengths and life spans.

We recommend either using the middle mark provided by the manufacturer , or measure the rope to find the middle before every use when necessary for absolute accuracy and safety"

Although there has been varying commentary from numerous sources on the likelihood of the Beal marker definitely having an effect on the rope or not, unfortunately it is irrelevant as the official wording on the matter rests in the above statement.

“Comments previously conveyed to you regarding the likely effects of this marker on the Edelrid ropes, both Dynamic and Static, appear to have been more of a personal opinion or observation, rather than an official wording on the matter from Edelrid. I apologise for any confusion in this regard.”


Sea to Summit – importers of Beal products
“As far as manufacturers to use it with is concerned, the ink can be used on any rope, however not all manufacturers agree to its labelling as such.”

S2S supplied a Safety Data Sheet on the ink to me.




Climbing anchors – importers of Tendon products
“you should never use normal texta to make a rope (ie sharpie etc). A rope marker made by a rope manufaturer is ok though. i think Beal might only recommend if for use on BEAL ropes but i know Tendon's rope marking pen they say is ok for other ropes as well”
http://www.mytendon.com/rope-marker

Response to my request for Safety Data Sheet on the Tendon Rope Marker:
“I’ve asked them previously and they have just told me it has been tested for influence on rope and has been recommended as a result of the testing”.



Given that the ropes that I use for canyoning/abseiling are semi-static ropes and not dynamic, I won’t be throwing my ropes away just yet because I have marked them in the past with the Beal Rope Marker. Having said that, I may buy the Tendon rope marker to mark the centre of any new Tendon ropes that I purchase. Just at a common sense level, it beggars belief that a rope manufacturer is going to manufacture and sell a marker pen that affects the structural integrity of their ropes. And you would think, if it doesn’t affect their ropes, why would it affect other rope brands if they are made of the same material.

if you have any further info I would be grateful

trog
6-Dec-2014
3:33:53 AM
For unmarked ropes a handy short term trick is chalk. Sounds dodgy but it works much better than I thought it would when first heard it suggested.

Sure it wears off relatively quickly, but do it on the first of 10 raps and there's a good chance it'll see you down, and you can always freshen it up.

Of course if you manage to get chalk anywhere else on your rope... try doing something distinctive, two or three bands say.
DMWdesign
7-Dec-2014
3:06:22 PM
On 6/12/2014 trog wrote:
>For unmarked ropes a handy short term trick is chalk. Sounds dodgy but
>it works much better than I thought it would when first heard it suggested.
>
>Sure it wears off relatively quickly, but do it on the first of 10 raps
>and there's a good chance it'll see you down, and you can always freshen
>it up.
>
>Of course if you manage to get chalk anywhere else on your rope... try
>doing something distinctive, two or three bands say.

Thanks for that suggestion Trog - sounds a good option
do you buy any old sort of chalk? for an art supplier?
would it stay on in water? (canyoning)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Dec-2014
3:53:59 PM
On 7/12/2014 DMWdesign wrote:
>On 6/12/2014 trog wrote:
>>For unmarked ropes a handy short term trick is chalk. Sounds dodgy but
>>it works much better than I thought it would when first heard it suggested.
(snip)
>Thanks for that suggestion Trog - sounds a good option
>do you buy any old sort of chalk? for an art supplier?
>would it stay on in water? (canyoning)

Not likely to stay on in a wet environment, as it is 'climbers chalk', ie similar to that used by gymnasts in their athletic endeavours where minimising palm/finger sweat can provide a competitive edge.
These days it is fairly readily available from most places that sell climbing equipment and comes in either block or powder form.


 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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