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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Author
Petzl Roc Pec Hand Drill
Dr Nick
1-Aug-2013
5:59:14 PM
Maybe I'm weird, but my approach is kind of half and half. I rap down something that looks reasonable, then "climb" it on a Grigri and toprope, generally in bolting boots, pulling madly on the rope/ascender/wall/whatever. That gives me a reasonable idea whether it'll go, and I can follow the climber's line even if I'm not really climbing it. You also get the chance to find the nice clipping stances, and use them. A stick of chalk can help to mark likely bolt holes, or drill as you go.

I then rap back down and actually place the bolts in a single push, so the glue doesn't go off in the nozzle/mixing cup.

It's a fairly slow way to do it, but you get the advantages of being able to drill from a rope as well as a feel for how the route will go. I've certainly changed my mind about where they go before as a result of trying it off the rope.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1-Aug-2013
8:53:03 PM
There are some interesting replies on this thread, but many of them have lost sight of the original poster's comments about the location being Buffalo and multipitch.

His earlier post indicates it is the Mt McLeod / Nth Buffalo slabs & Nug Nug areas of Buffalo...
~> Good luck with the abseil-in concept there!!!

~> & these two posts indicate minimal specific experience of those areas of interest...

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=6&MessageID=25230

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=6&MessageID=25245

... Once again, good luck!


 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
There are 42 messages in this topic.

 

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