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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Camming Hexes

Big G
20/02/2013
8:42:23 PM
How do people feel about camming their hexes? Any tips? What about wired hexes - is it possible with something to weight the piece (if desperate)?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
8:52:40 PM
On 20/02/2013 Big G wrote:
>How do people feel about camming their hexes? Any tips? What about wired
>hexes - is it possible with something to weight the piece (if desperate)?

Camming hexes is what they are designed for.
They do it easily...

They don't need weighting, unless the crack thay are placed in is parallel in the extreme...

In my opinion wired hexes are not as good in this application as slung hexes.
The only advantage in wired hexes is being able to place them in positions out of reach, such as in aid climbing.
As a long time proponent of aid climbing, personally I do not find this an advantage with most wired hexes (particularly anything bigger than #3), as in my experience many other pieces fit the same location without the wire tending to slip through...

phillipivan
20/02/2013
8:58:07 PM
The way most hexes are slung, or wired, it happens by itself in typical placements under load. Which is good, its what distinguishes hexes (in my mind) from just being really big nuts.

In some insecure placements you could indeed weight them to attempt to prevent the rope dislodging them. An opposed nut is probably better if one can be found.

Big G
20/02/2013
9:18:46 PM
The weighting was specifically in regards to the wired hexes. I was playing around with my hexes and found a camming placement inbetween sizes. Although I wasn't climbing and no rope wasattached I could see the wired hex would have the potential to walk. It made me question wether the wired version would also pull straight out. More importantly I have never seen a wired one placed as a cam and feel nervous about it!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/02/2013
9:22:21 PM
>I could see the wired hex would have the potential to walk
?

Nah.
You are thinking of slcd's...
Dr Nick
20/02/2013
10:45:55 PM
When you say "in between sizes" I'm a bit confused. The two orientations for each size means there's really not much gap to be had - I think I can get my #4 "wide" in basically the same spot as my #6 "narrow", although I may be thinking of #3 and #4 since I haven't actually used them for ages. Are you talking about a placement where it's so parallel that you have to rely only on camming, and is such that you're relying on only partial contact on the faces of the hex? Within reason it should still be fine (and if it's not within reason you should probably be using the next size up!). Or just slot a cam, since it's that parallel.

If you've got reasonable contact on the faces the friction *should* hold things in place, but I agree that a wired hex (I'm assuming <#4 or so) might walk in this situation. I'd probably want to leave another hex there to hold the torque, which is a great excuse to offload that #11.
rightarmbad
21/02/2013
12:01:49 AM
Lets get something's straight.
Hexes cannot walk.

They may be dislodged out of insecure placements, but they simply cannot walk.
To say they walk is to show a total ignorance of what walking is.

Without independent movement at each end of the device, there is no mechanism for a hex to walk.

Big G
21/02/2013
6:53:47 AM
On 21/02/2013 rightarmbad wrote:
>Lets get something's straight.
>Hexes cannot walk.
>
Ok so maybe 'walk' was not the correct term. Wobble and wiggle around might have been more appropriate. As a mere apprentice, I beg your forgiveness master.

The fake placement I was playing around with was man made, totally parallel and the rock quite smooth so maybe it's unrealistic; it just got me thinking...
Dr Nick
21/02/2013
7:05:21 AM
If you give a hex a seating tug in sandstone then there's a little bit of bite between the sides and the crack wall. I'm sure there are rock types where this isn't applicable, but it shouldn't be too uncommon. That's not going to be present on polished concrete or metal.

Big G
21/02/2013
8:51:34 AM
good advice people.

see chockstyone can be a nice place....

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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