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researching cam designs

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12-Dec-2004
9:29:19 PM

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gfdonc

13-Dec-2004
1:24:41 PM

The original interviews with Ray Jardine in UK "Mountain" magazine I recall were insightful. He talked about cam profiles and selection of grades of aluminium. These would be 20 years old now and hard to find, but there's a few diehard mag collectors around that would have a copy. (sniff).
There's a similar writeup online on Wild Country's web site, check there first.
http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/frameshardware.html (or explore around their web site).
Happy hunting.
- Steve

gfdonc

13-Dec-2004
10:05:01 PM

I only briefly rechecked the Wild Country site before I posted earlier, but didn't spot the Jardine interview. It was there a few months back. Surf around, though.

rightarmbad

13-Dec-2004
10:43:14 PM

There is good information on patent sites. A while ago I went google searching for contract materials testing and dragged up some good stuff. Heaps of stuff on deformation of lobes and strength testing/ failure modes of slings attatched to loop type termination popular with new designs. Info on frictional properties of various alloys in regards to rock is there a plenty. Have fun searching.
Cheers, Darryl.

gfdonc

13-Dec-2004
10:54:29 PM

Ah. Now I have a few moments spare, did the digging you were needing.

The Jardine interview was originally in Mountain in 1979 (OK I was 5 years out, move on shall we?) and I must have recently found it here:
http://www.rayjardine.com/index.shtml

URL too obvious! There are a few links there worth checking; the interview is here:
http://www.rayjardine.com/magazines/1979-mt69/yourfr.shtml
but the article I was referring to is actually:
http://www.rayjardine.com/magazines/1979-mt69/inneed.shtml
which is going to be right up your alley. Happy learning!
- Steve

cheesehead

14-Dec-2004
2:56:23 AM

Out of curiosity, what's sparked your curiosity, AL?

rightarmbad

20-Dec-2004
2:02:46 AM

Just reading it now, looks alright. I would have replied earlier but chockstone messed up my password.

rightarmbad

20-Dec-2004
2:33:48 AM

http://www.amrg.org/Rope_system_analysis_Attaway.pdf

Bit technical but interesting.

http://www.mit.edu/%7ecuster/rocking/cams/cams.body.html

This is pretty good. The title of the artical is also a good basis for some more googling

These were stored in my documents in my computer. I since have a new machine and have archived a heap of stuff on dvd. Will dig out some more sites and info when I've got too much time. I have a broken toe right now so it might be real soon.

Cheers, Darryl.

P.S. There is a bit of info about regarding splitter cams, as these were designed by a uni student.

rightarmbad

22-Dec-2004
12:32:51 AM

Toe, silly one that. Jumped out of the shower to answer the phone. You can guess most of the rest, tiled hallway, loud thud, profanity, door frame broke my fall as well as my toe. Put my climbing shoes on on sunday and it was all right for about 30 seconds. probably another 2 weeks yet. That second artical was one of the best around. I have another good one about a consultant to trango developing their new cams. It's on some engineering forum somewhere. Stumbled accross it when I was chasing down specs for some loudspeaker drivers. There is a really great one discussing different alloys and friction with the rock. I'll find it when I get organised. Se ya.

rightarmbad

25-Dec-2004
11:21:09 PM

WHAT MAKES A GOOD FRIEND? THE MATHEMATICS OF ROCK CLIMBING

http://epubs.siam.org/sam-bin/getfile/SIREV/articles/31739.pdf.

If you find this by google searching you can view this without having a password by viewing as HTML or by following this link

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=cache:S8C5DbxIEyUJ:epubs.siam.org/sam-bin/getfile/SIREV/articles/31739.pdf+cam+angle+rock&hl=en&start=34

Allright if you like differential equations. Formatting is a bit messed up by viewing as HTML though.

Try this, google ' parameterized curve '

More.

http://i10www.ira.uka.de/kaeufl/DAV/beitraege/f4.html
basic

http://www.stormingmedia.us/keywords/high_strength_alloys.html
good stuff on alloy properties

http://www.matweb.com/reference/abbreviationsM.asp
handy to know

My interest?

When I began climbing I was disgusted at the price of cams. The chinese government at that stage had just set up a wonderful organisation to liase with other countries to encourage manufacturing in china. I figured that I could get cams manufactured in china and try and make a living by saving aussies heaps of money over buying american and english overpriced underengineered products. Unfortunately the industry at that time was sewn up tight with patents.
Things have changed a bit now that patents are running out and most designs have been revamped. More investment is also required as the big guys have invested in laser cutters and other hitec equipement to cut costs. I still keep an eye on whats going on in the industry though.
The first time I began researching was for personal reasons. I didn't want to die. It seemed to me that a lot of people just did not understand how a cam worked, and how they should be placed. The whole subject is clouded by misinformed, never understand engineering, loudmouths that perpetuate long standing myths. I figured the best way was to learn for myself exactly how they work, and from that know for myself the best way to place them. Nothing more powerfull than true understanding of the underlying principles involved.

Cheers, Darryl.

Something non related, Chalk use.

http://www.sportex.bham.ac.uk/staff/lifx_files/Coeff%20friction%20climbing%20JSS%202001.pdf

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