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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Author
Abseiler hurt on Bluff Mountain, Warrumbungles

E. Wells
30-Jun-2016
7:22:07 AM
On 30/06/2016 mikllaw wrote:
>Also, a JRC once said to me about Bungles in late may through till september,
>"the days are just too short"

Short days can work so long as all your walking is done in the dark. I have never been there outside the months Mikl stated but always (except for vertigo etc) stood at base of route at first light. For Bluff from the hut that means 4.00 wake and walking by 4.45. Only climbed once at night because of a time consuming wrong start on Neruda up some rotten vertical gully. Without the guidance of more experienced local (Eric) I would never be able to walk in the dark from hut initially. Last time we camped on saddle directly across from Bluff and walked straight down into gully and back up which was exceptionally easy , maybe 30 min? I hope you guys get back and as JRC mentioned ease into it.
Jrc
30-Jun-2016
4:30:29 PM
Thanks mike for the reminder

I found out the days are too short late June 1976 at 630 pm in pitch darkness hanging under the overhang on the abseil off crater bluff trying to unjam a knot in the rope . Made it back to hut at 930 !
widewetandslippery
30-Jun-2016
4:57:03 PM
My bungles obsevations:

You want to be fit. It is like alpine rockclimbing. You want to get to the base of any route in good order.

The route finding is tough, any new crag or area presents new challenges, the bungles provide a lot of them.

Expect any route of any grade can get bloody hard quick. A foul move quickly goes snafu.

The advice above about BB and getting out after pitch 2 if things arent following and you are already slow is very good.

For bluff mtn it can be good to camp on one one of the campsites closer than the hut. Walk in, set camp, go to the hut tank for water and back to the campsite. Its a pleasant walk day or night along the track unloaded.

winter can be ok, check the forecast, follow your nose, climb quick and dont be scared of bailing. Look at as a day in the bungles is a good day

Expect every route to be long and hard, any time of year
mikllaw
30-Jun-2016
6:00:53 PM
Double or triple up gear if you find a crack and use lots of slings (a dozen or more). (as I put doubles in, Zac says every runner of mine is a belay)
As said above, double ropes are essential.
Walk in the afternoon before and leave the gear there. Maybe even find and do the first pitch.
Be there at dawn.

How did your line correspond with the topo on theCrag?
technogeekery
1-Jul-2016
1:43:18 PM
Your trip report is good, thank you - graphically shows some of the "interesting" aspects to climbing in the Bungles. Appreciate you taking the time to post up.

Lots of good comments in this thread, but sounds like you were pretty well prepared, and did okay in pretty challenging circumstances. Hope you get back there for a less eventful trip.
Eamonn
1-Jul-2016
8:14:44 PM
Very good advice above - especially starting much much earlier and bringing double ropes.

So the line I think we took was similar to the green ().

Hard to know really if we ever were actually on the route.. although most of the pitches I lead felt reasonable. I don't feel as though we went left enough on the first pitch. Perhaps we started in the wrong spot.

And couldn't imagine the style of climbing before going there, but definitely was incredible. Hope to go back one day!

Kintala
3-Jul-2016
5:33:50 PM
We recently made the mistake of climbing Flight of the Phoenix on 50m double ropes instead of 60m doubles. You only have to get off route a bit and you fall short of the better belay spots. We ended up having to add an extra pitch on the end.

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There are 27 messages in this topic.

 

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