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Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 51
Author
Booroomba accident
widewetandslippery
13-May-2016
4:48:36 PM
I, m all in favour of a better guide. Its a hard crag to get to know where things are, the climbing is awesome and I dont think I, ve been there without being scared silly. Let more people get scared silly!

my ascent of hermes would of had most you, and deservedly so, pissing yourselves in laughter. Wouldnt change such things for a moment.
Jayford4321
13-May-2016
4:49:47 PM
On 13/05/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>Most younger climbers in Canberra (even the ones who go to Piddington and Arapiles) don't go out there. The number one reason I've heard for this is that people get lost trying to find routes, then get runout and scared.

To quote U from anotha shred;
>This one is a cracker though....

Did U just claim tha nXt gen don't know how to use their phone apps to find thR way or follow tracks to base of climbz or R U saying the earlier gen wR smartR?
I reckon itz simpler than that.
The next gen like convenience 2 much, and Booroomba is furthR than 5 min from thR cars.
Yeh, an U R prolly right about them finding slabs 2 slabby, and 2 scary.

>Booroomba could use more traffic.

It'l still B there when we are all gone, so Y is that important, unless nxt U'l B flogging them climbing gear they dont need due being slabby?
One Day Hero
13-May-2016
5:21:42 PM
On 13/05/2016 gnaguts wrote:
>To quote U from anotha shred;
>>This one is a cracker though....
>>Booroomba could use more traffic.

Wow, you're pretty astute for a failed palindrome. It is funny though, isn't it? On one thread I'm dissing Nati locals for making Araps convenient and popular, while on another I'm advocating more traffic for Booroomba. How can that be? Could it be that there is an ideal visitation rate somewhere between chockers and ghost town?

>It'l still B there when we are all gone, so Y is that important, unless
>nxt U'l B flogging them climbing gear they dont need due being slabby?

It's not really important. I think a lot of climbers would enjoy Booroomba if they learned their way around. A new guide might help. It might just be too unfashionable and no one will ever go there, which is fine. What I don't think will ever happen is Booroomba getting overcrowded like Arapiles is.
CanClimber
16-May-2016
11:38:38 AM
" Most younger climbers in Canberra (even the ones who go to Piddington and Arapiles) don't go out there. The number one reason I've heard for this is that people get lost trying to find routes, then get runout and scared. Booroomba could use more traffic."

This is right. I know a lot of older climbers see putting their dentures in before a climb as a point of aid but that culture is of not much interest to most young climbers. I am a climber under the age of thirty and one of about 6 that I know that have climbed something at booromba which wasn't sunstroke. Everyone goes to nowra and it is a struggle to find people willing to go to boo. Before the above mentioned guide, and the great cleaning work people like damo have done, these climbs were unidentifiable and often covered in moss. This guide in my opinion is one of the best thing to happen for boo. Already traffic has increased with this new info.

Importantly now I know where the climbs are and most importantly I know the risks involved. It is not about not being willing to take risk, it is knowing the risk you are taking. I don't want to hop on a climb and not know I have a 20m runout ahead. It seems to me absurd to want to not pass on the information but then again I don't get the culture desires that.
Jayford4321
16-May-2016
12:09:10 PM
On 16/05/2016 CanClimber wrote:
>most importantly I know the risks involved. It is not about not being willing to take risk, it is knowing the risk you are taking. I don't want to hop on a climb and not know I have a 20m runout ahead.

Most peeps climb with their eyes open cos what U C is what U get, especially on slabs.
I'm saying 20 m runouts R easy 2 identify if U know what I mean? If knot, speak 2 macca an he'll set U straight cos I don't think there's an app 4 that yet.
CanClimber
16-May-2016
12:33:22 PM
Many of the climbs a boo have multiple pitches which you cannot see the details from the ground and if you went up and had to back off there can be poor belays and you will have to leave gear there to get off. Also many of climbs follow seams in the granite, these sometimes have gear but also can be fused not allowing for any gear. This is hard to pick for any distance. Further the ability to discern such details comes from experience climbing in the area, experience which is being denied climbers by withholding information about these climbs.
technogeekery
16-May-2016
2:02:33 PM
I completely get the point that some of the crusties are making - there is little more pure a form of climbing than just to pitch up and climb something, relying on your own ability to assess the likely risk, and then to get yourself out of poo when that crack turns out to be a fused seam. I have huge respect / admiration for people who climb hard with that ethic. But I guess most people who really climb like this don't read the guidebooks, they just climb whatever they think they can get up?

I've never really been one of them myself though, and getting less so all the time. I still want to test my nerve and ability, but am far less likely to commit to unknown-but-hard moves a long way from pro with no idea of when/if I'll find protection. So I'm very grateful for the new guide because I can choose climbs that are within my risk appetite until I get better at granite.


Dane
16-May-2016
3:04:26 PM
I can't think of many places up there that you couldn't bail off safely with a couple of draws, or a slung tree... and you can get to the top of anything if you want to rap in to clean it.

Most times I've been up there I've found at least one other group, so it's still seeing traffic

As for not knowing from the ground, here's a cheat sheet:

Is it on the slabs? -> It's a slab, pro will be sparse if it exists at all.
Is it a crack? -> You should be ok, but it will probably have blank bits.
Is it known as a good beginners lead? -> Probably good pro, but it might be a sandbag.
Is it known for a run out? -> Really? If you have to ask, you probably should skip it.
Is any pro listed in the guide? -> If you don't have it, it'll be run out.
Are bolts mentioned?
- is it a sport line? -> probably well bolted.
- is it a mixed line? -> probably a little run out.
- are they the anchors? -> I hope you find them, there's probably nothing else up there to belay off.

What info is withheld? You have all the same info we've all had, and more than the FA. If you want specific info then ask around. There are a lot of people willing to tell you what to add to your rack, join you, show you around, or whatever else it is that you want
One Day Hero
16-May-2016
4:00:11 PM
On 16/05/2016 Dane wrote:
>I can't think of many places up there that you couldn't bail off safely
>with a couple of draws, or a slung tree... and you can get to the top of
>anything if you want to rap in to clean it.

This is pretty spot on, and something I did quite a bit at Booroomba when I was young.

>Most times I've been up there I've found at least one other group, so
>it's still seeing traffic

When I started in the mid 90s, you'd see at least ten climbers out there most good weekends.
>
>As for not knowing from the ground, here's a cheat sheet:
>
>Is it on the slabs? -> It's a slab, pro will be sparse if it exists at
>all.

Generally true, but there are some notable exceptions

>Is it a crack? -> You should be ok, but it will probably have blank bits.

Generally not true. Most of the cracks have pro all the way, most of them now also have bushes all the way due to lack of traffic (except for the ones which have been dug out so that we can write them up as being good).

>Is it known as a good beginners lead? -> Probably good pro, but it might
>be a sandbag.
>Is it known for a run out? -> Really? If you have to ask, you probably
>should skip it.
>Is any pro listed in the guide? -> If you don't have it, it'll be run
>out.
>Are bolts mentioned?
>- is it a sport line? -> probably well bolted.
>- is it a mixed line? -> probably a little run out.
>- are they the anchors? -> I hope you find them, there's probably
>nothing else up there to belay off.

Agree with all that...most of the "sport lines" will cause Blueys sport climbers to pack hard shit.
>
>What info is withheld? You have all the same info we've all had, and more
>than the FA.

I think there is room for improvement and finding a balance between the existing guidebook and a "full blow by blow". For instance, we're trying to remove all of the bullshit "climb up to obvious tree" type navigation. The obvious tree probably burnt down, and it's only obvious which tree is meant after the fact. There are a bunch of routes that I've finally worked out after rap exploration days. After 20 years of climbing there, having a momont of "so that's where that fuching thing actually goes!" tells me that the existing description may not be quite up to scratch.

>If you want specific info then ask around. There are a lot
>of people willing to tell you what to add to your rack, join you, show
>you around, or whatever else it is that you want

This is a pretty important point. I gained a lot of info on routes by word of mouth, and I reckon a lot of the "minimal guidebook" crowd did the same. Is there any difference between experienced locals handing out verbal tips, or just printing those tips in a book?
widewetandslippery
16-May-2016
4:14:59 PM
On 16/05/2016 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 16/05/2016 Dane wrote:
>>I can't think of many places up there that you couldn't bail off safely
>>with a couple of draws, or a slung tree... and you can get to the top
>of
>>anything if you want to rap in to clean it.
>
>This is pretty spot on, and something I did quite a bit at Booroomba when
>I was young.
>
>>Most times I've been up there I've found at least one other group, so
>>it's still seeing traffic
>
>When I started in the mid 90s, you'd see at least ten climbers out there
>most good weekends.
>>
>>As for not knowing from the ground, here's a cheat sheet:
>>
>>Is it on the slabs? -> It's a slab, pro will be sparse if it exists
>at
>>all.
>
>Generally true, but there are some notable exceptions
>
>>Is it a crack? -> You should be ok, but it will probably have blank bits.
>
>Generally not true. Most of the cracks have pro all the way, most of them
>now also have bushes all the way due to lack of traffic (except for the
>ones which have been dug out so that we can write them up as being good).
>
>>Is it known as a good beginners lead? -> Probably good pro, but it might
>>be a sandbag.
>>Is it known for a run out? -> Really? If you have to ask, you probably
>>should skip it.
>>Is any pro listed in the guide? -> If you don't have it, it'll be run
>>out.
>>Are bolts mentioned?
>>- is it a sport line? -> probably well bolted.
>>- is it a mixed line? -> probably a little run out.
>>- are they the anchors? -> I hope you find them, there's probably
>>nothing else up there to belay off.
>
>Agree with all that...most of the "sport lines" will cause Blueys sport
>climbers to pack hard shit.
>>
>>What info is withheld? You have all the same info we've all had, and
>more
>>than the FA.
>
>I think there is room for improvement and finding a balance between the
>existing guidebook and a "full blow by blow". For instance, we're trying
>to remove all of the bullshit "climb up to obvious tree" type navigation.
>The obvious tree probably burnt down, and it's only obvious which tree
>is meant after the fact. There are a bunch of routes that I've finally
>worked out after rap exploration days. After 20 years of climbing there,
>having a momont of "so that's where that fuching thing actually goes!"
>tells me that the existing description may not be quite up to scratch.
>
>>If you want specific info then ask around. There are a lot
>>of people willing to tell you what to add to your rack, join you, show
>>you around, or whatever else it is that you want
>
>This is a pretty important point. I gained a lot of info on routes by
>word of mouth, and I reckon a lot of the "minimal guidebook" crowd did
>the same. Is there any difference between experienced locals handing out
>verbal tips, or just printing those tips in a book?

Last point first, to a certain extent yes. Lots of that info you got was by learning the crag as well. As a blow in not knowing too much about routes done ground up keeps the flavour. Most of the classics, to my knowledge were nott pre inspected mixed routes. In which case giving the repeat climber the knowledge of the FA is fair play. Good detailed route descriptions that acurratly show the line and info onthe best links of pitches on routes is good to. Yes most of the sport climbs are sporting. Telling someone how not to die on possum or hermes is reasonable, so is giving a decent description to start determinant. Look forward to the book.

gffc
16-May-2016
4:48:31 PM
I would guess that anyone who says that the guidebook should contain as little information about the climbs as possible isn't the audience for it anyway. No one is going to buy a guidebook that's just a catalogue of FA heroics but I'd be happy to buy one that strikes the balance that ODH is aiming for.

I've gotten lost often enough there so updated directions, maps and route descriptions will be great to have, but noting unusual gear requirements for easy classics seems like it's entirely appropriate for a guide that aims to convey useful information. Detailing the length of every single runout at Booroomba and explaining every piece of gear would obviously be unnecessary, but I don't think anyone is advocating for that. Is there really anything wrong with pointing out that, while most lines are at least a little runout, there are a handful that are very well protected (provided that you have a #5 for Hermes)?

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There are 51 messages in this topic.

 

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