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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 114
Author
2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010
fish boy
21/08/2010
3:22:10 PM
I'll be there. Hopefully do something on north wall with my new ledge!

Ben_E
30/08/2010
9:24:19 PM
Oooh! Sounds fun. I'm recently repatriated from the U.S. - keen to join in. Not a complete aid/bigwall noob (have done a couple of the easier Yosemite walls), but have no experience with Buffalo rock or the Oz aid rating systems. Happy to be a belay slave and jug up after someone on harder stuff, or swing leads on something easier. Drop me an email if anyone wants to do something in the meantime (well, when it warms up, anyway...).
another dave
31/08/2010
6:12:42 PM
I'm interested but uni has killed off that weekend.
If anything magically happens the week/weekend before please let me know
fish boy
3/09/2010
1:29:36 AM
Hey Ben, what have you done at Yos?

I'll drop you a line soon if my regulars drop out...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/09/2010
9:16:59 AM
Aye fb, how did Salathe go?
~> Would be great to read a trip report...

Didjagetafly with your new ledge?
Fish Boy
3/09/2010
9:51:36 AM
Hey Rod, thanks for the good luck message a while back, forgive me for not responding...

Didn't do the Salathe for numerous reasons. No fixed lines to Mammoth stuffed up our plans (for those who don't know, the tactic is to climb the Freeblast which is the 1st 10 pitches, rap the lines, then haul up them the next day and go. Hauling the Freeblast is no fun), and my wife and I felt we needed to be more solid as a team so we can do it comfortably.

We made up for it though by doing around 40 other pitches of climbing, and I got to do some sweet looong crack climbs in classic places with her jugging the whole way! Next time El Cap will be easy.

Look forward to catching up with you aiding goons soon, sorry for the hijack.

Oh yeah, got a fish ledge with fly, a large fish haul bag, a yates and a fish chest rack/harness and some fish adjustable aiders....;)
bl@ke
3/09/2010
6:37:44 PM
Fish boy, Fish portaledge, Fish this Fish that ;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/09/2010
7:07:42 PM
On 3/09/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>Fish boy, Fish portaledge, Fish this Fish that ;)

Now you are trolling...
~> ... careful you don't hook a great white pointer!

Ben_E
3/09/2010
7:58:51 PM
On 3/09/2010 fish boy wrote:
>Hey Ben, what have you done at Yos?
>
>I'll drop you a line soon if my regulars drop out...

Hey FB,

In terms of aid, I've done the Nose of El Cap and the West face of Leaning Tower*, so both relatively technically easy clean aid lines. Am looking for an excuse to buy a hammer, though...

Would be most appreciative if you dropped me a line whenever you want a partner on something, though a bit of notice helps (I have a wife and a one year old, so I can't always drop everything on the spot).

Nice purchase on the Fish portaledge, people seem to swear by them.

Cheers,

Ben

*OK, full disclosure for honesty's sake: The first 7 pitches of Leaning Tower. We bailed with our tails and the haul bag between our legs when my partner took a fall and injured herself. I still want to go back and get to the top of that one...
bl@ke
3/09/2010
8:02:27 PM
On 3/09/2010 Ben_E wrote:
>Am looking for an excuse to buy a hammer, though...

Its the best feeling with a hammer by your side, ready to hammer something. There are a few things at buffalo that people use pins on.
egosan
3/09/2010
10:01:21 PM
Clean Aid, bl@ck. Clean Aid. Those pushers at BD giving you your first hit free. They are after your soul, blake.

Resist, man. Resist.
bl@ke
4/09/2010
12:03:17 AM
The hammer is for impressing the ladys in the gorge carpark :)
Fish Boy
4/09/2010
1:59:09 AM
Speaking of hammers, Yos was a booty fest. We were rapping off Wash Col and I found a BD hammer, a few wires, biners and a Leeper cam hook.

Fish Boy
4/09/2010
2:01:35 AM
Ben E, there is a couple of lines at Buff that would use a hammer, and a couple that have gone clean but people still hammer on. I will give drop you a line soon I'm sure...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/09/2010
9:06:23 PM
On 4/09/2010 Fish Boy wrote:
>Ben E, there is a couple of lines at Buff that would use a hammer, and
>a couple that have gone clean but people still hammer on. I will give drop
>you a line soon I'm sure...

Welcome to Chockstone Ben_E.
Regarding people 'still hammering on' I feel that point needs a bit of clarification, as there are a few iconic climbs at Buffalo that get aided regularly (Ozymandias being one), that have not only gone on clean aid for many years now, but have in fact also been free climbed.
~> There are many (most?) in the Australian climbing community who would consider it very poor form to hammer on those, however many other lines are there still waiting to be done as cleanly as possible...




Ben_E
4/09/2010
10:41:26 PM
>Welcome to Chockstone Ben_E.
>Regarding people 'still hammering on' I feel that point needs a bit of
>clarification, as there are a few iconic climbs at Buffalo that
>get aided regularly (Ozymandias being one), that have not only gone on
>clean aid for many years now, but have in fact also been free climbed.
>~> There are many (most?) in the Australian climbing community who would
>consider it very poor form to hammer on those, however many other
>lines are there still waiting to be done as cleanly as possible...
>☺

Hey there IdratherbeclimbingM9.

Firstly, thanks for the welcome.

Secondly, what's the line about when all you have is a hammer every problem looks like a nail?

Relax, I did not mean to cause alarm or open any cans of worms with my (mainly flippant) hammer comment. I have no intention of nailing my way up Ozy, nor nailing every other available surface of Buffalo into submission. You'll note all my aid climbing to date has been hammerless...

Having been climbing in California for the past 5 years I've seen on routes such Serenity what pitons do to the rock over time.

Hopefully we'll get to meet up in Nov or some other time; I think you'll find we're on about the same page on these issues (unless you restrict yourself to knotted pieces of cord for pro - in which case I take my hat off to you but won't be joining you in that suicidal degree of saintliness).

Cheers,

Ben


IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/09/2010
11:16:49 PM
On 4/09/2010 Ben_E wrote:
>You'll note all my aid climbing to date has been hammerless...

Yes, I had picked up on that. I was simply taking any ambiguity out of FB's comment by giving context to it.☺

It will be good to meet up in Nov., though after what you have already done at Yosemite, what the main group will be doing on that weekend may seem lightweight by comparison.

Cheers,
Rod.

Ben_E
4/09/2010
11:26:06 PM
^^^^^^^

I'm no seasoned bigwall hard-man, I don't think I'll be bored!

It'll be a weekend outside, an intro to Buffalo and hopefully some Aust. climbers, either way.

B.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/09/2010
11:36:50 PM
On 30/08/2010 Ben_E wrote:
>have no experience with Buffalo rock or the Oz aid rating systems.

Here is an old (rough) guide conversion, though these things are always up for debate!

USA Australian
A0 = M1
A1 = M1
A2 = M2
A2+ = M3
A3 = M4
A3+ = M5
A4 = M6
A4+ = M7
A5 = M8
A5+ = M9 / M10

The latest Mt Buffalo Guidebook (2006) lists a slightly different conversion with overlapping grades as follows;-
A0 ~ M1
A1 ~ M2 / M3
A2 ~ M3 / M4
A2+ ~ M5
A3 ~ M6
A3+ ~ M7
A4 ~ M7 / M8
A4+ ~ M8
A5 ~ M8 / M9 / M10

Note: Australia has an open ended grading system known as the Ewbank Grading System.

Ben_E
5/09/2010
6:50:35 AM
Thanks, that puts things into context a bit; I'm guestimating the sorts of climbs I've been doing would convert to a M2, maybe M3, then. Time to grab a guidebook and see what climbs that puts within reach...

B.

 Page 2 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 114
There are 114 messages in this topic.

 

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