Beal "Apollo II" 11mm X 50M. (Dry Cover)
Weightmtr: 75 gms UIAA Falls: 16 Impact Force: 7.7 kN
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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
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|Buffalo Aidfest November 2013
On 15/03/2014 simey wrote:
>Nice work phillipivan - a good effort and a good read.
Thanks very much guys.
I've made a number of edits to fix grammar and expand upon a few points, but it's probably only worth rereading if you have an especially unsatisfying job.
I am retired, so have had the luxury of re-reading the thread several times, and each was enjoyable!
Your use of the word rivet (in several places), initially confused me for a bit. What you are referring to are actually carrot bolts, though you will find the odd rivet (much smaller, particularly for depth, than carrots), on Holden Caulfield.
I have now decided that what you referred to as a free-able chimney, is actually the slot/hole behind the 'boulder' located just below the plaque on Wilkinson ledge. I initially thought you were referring to the final pitch offwidth of LG.
The boulder-slot is unrope-freeable*, but cajones would be needed for that tactic on the final (offwidth) LG pitch.
*I wouldn't do it and advise caution...
As an example, I once slipped and almost fell out of the boulder-slot due wet rock and trying to push an overly large wombat up to my partner on the ledge above. I was roped at the time but gave myself a lot of slack rope so as to move up freely, so to speak.
On that occasion I got tangled up in the excess coils that caught up near the base of the slot, otherwise I would have shot out of it, like off a slippery-dip into the void, ... to eventually (hopefully) twang like a bungy jump gone wrong!
Yeah, Im muddling rivets & carrots. Also, to be honnest, I just wanted to squeeze a cycling reference in there for my own amusement cf. on the rivet.
And you are correct about my references to the chimney being the 'boulder-slot'.
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