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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Author
seacliff rambling
Duncan
25-Jan-2013
11:35:48 AM
Some of those fishermen's descents at North Head are terrifying. Those guys are absolutely insane.
Goldie
26-Jan-2013
3:37:57 AM
Id love to climb honour thy father, thats an incredible line, but I cant lead 22. The others ive done more than once (incl TF in the dark in the rain. a highlight). also Albitrocity, Beneath the Wonderob (pulled on gear i think), and Temp Like Achilles. and Twighlights last gleaming..
Scrabble looks like a great line, I was thinking I'd rap it and check the bolt(s) first.
Classic shot, is that the FA?
mikllaw
26-Jan-2013
6:37:20 AM
probably the only ascent...

how are the descents these days?
Are there any bolts left in the bolt ladder?
Goldie
29-Jan-2013
3:43:32 PM
Someone has replaced the remains of the very old wooden ladders on the easternmost decent with retired aluminium extension ladders. Some of them are sitting on bits of rock held together with heaps of what looks like a urethane sealant eg sikaflex (seriously). I guess its fishermen. I assume they put this in because the steel decent is in such bad shape. Actually the top half of the steel one is good, with some newish gal chain, and even some stainless carrots, but the bottom 2 steel ladders are rusting out very badly, and hanging on their (very rusty) chains. I actually bid on a bunch of 11/8" 316 tube on ebay a while ago with the plan of welding up some replacements.
The aluminium ladders are corroding really badly and I reckon there's potential for stress/corrosion cracking in the near future, so I opted for the (more predictable) rust/steel mixture last time. probably rap next time.

There's some beautiful rust flowers on the bolt ladder, given that they started as 1/2" (?) I like to think there's still some steel in there somewhere..
Goldie
15-Feb-2013
9:26:44 PM
Ok so, I've put in 4 new ss carrots in Scrabble, and I climbed it on the weekend. Trouble is, I've just looked at that old photo again Mike and reread your description, and am thinking I've done a different climb.

I went right under the very chossy roof and then straight up the corner above.
Whatever it is, I think it's a good natural line, about 17, reasonable natural pro and a brand new ss carrot on the crux (which is otherwise a bit unprotected).
It was a fun morning, we got onto The Bolt Ladder afterwards.
Decent was terrifying as usual, I actually met the fishermen that put in the aluminium cloride and sikaflex sculpture the night I was placing the bolts (they yanked my rap line really hard out of curiosity). Lovely blokes, but not material scientists.

mikllaw
16-Feb-2013
11:51:39 AM
you went right, I went left.
I've marked where I am on your photo with an X




After the start the gear was ok I think. yours looks like fun and will certainly be more popular with a few bolts.
What condition are the bolts on the bolt ladder? rotting doorhandles?
Goldie
17-Feb-2013
8:19:52 PM
The bolt ladder is in great shape, the zinc plated 10mm carrots have got plenty of rust on them, but I reckon are pretty good nonetheless. With all the natural pro, and the occasional remnant of the original 1/2" bolts, and a few stainless carrots, if you clip them all its really well protected IMO. For me, the historical ironmongery is a big feature of the climb (and North Head in general), I think it would be a real shame if anyone ringbolted it. In fact I was a bit sad to see that someone has put a ring at the top of the fear (in a dumb position), I havn't climbed it in a while, I'm just hoping there's no rings on the climb itself.
Right, I'm off to print myself a T-shirt: Rings Off North Head

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18-Feb-2013
7:57:53 AM
On 17/02/2013 Goldie wrote:
>I was a bit sad to see that someone has put a ring
>at the top of the fear (in a dumb position), I havn't climbed it in a while,
>I'm just hoping there's no rings on the climb itself.

It may be something to do with the 'swingers' who sometimes use that site?

>Right, I'm off to print myself a T-shirt: Rings Off North Head
>
You may be interested in signing up for a Dangerouser Cliffs Australia T-shirt, they are sexily professional productions and although only a coveted few exist at the moment, I hear they are in great demand.
Goldie
1-Apr-2013
1:19:35 PM
Gosh Rod, I've just realised that you were serious about Dangerouser Cliffs Australia . I'm keen for a T shirt!
Btw, I'm running out of climbing buddies, they've all had kids and are working too hard these days, if anyone's looking for a climbing partner for (preferrably) trad,drop me a line.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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