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Thumbs Down - Clean Aid and Free, Solo.


benjenga

15-May-2012
7:41:57 AM

Nice one Mac


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-May-2012
4:22:49 PM

On 15/05/2012 Macciza wrote:
>High All
>Ticked it today - 1st pitch @~23 . . .

Excellent.
What grade the next pitch/s?, ... and does it take the main roof central crack high up in the pic below?


Macciza

15-May-2012
5:19:12 PM

Hi
That's not to be confused with a 23 spurt climb . . .
Some people have told me that would treat anything with my name on it carefully, and . . .

Next 2 pitches will run together - not too bad,been up to the next ledge. Looks like a shorter but harder crux at the end of the roof, so probably 23 . . . ;-}


E. Wells

15-May-2012
5:59:25 PM

awesome, nice job up there. You seriously think that little seam of vegetation in the next roof is gonna be 23???!! Is Zac helping you to grade? :-)


Macciza

15-May-2012
8:44:21 PM

Well, traditionally classic Blue Mountains 23 does cover a very wide range of actual climbing so Zac and I have used it for a few things . . .
So like I said it will probably be hard 23 - but what a place to lobbing off . . .


nmonteith

15-May-2012
9:15:01 PM

When are you doing it without the preplaced gear?

cogsy

15-May-2012
9:32:32 PM

Nice one Mac... good to see somebody enjoyed the challenge of climbing the most unappealing line of choss on the wall!
Reminds me of last time I saw Adam Darragh, when I stirred him about his love of choss filled vegetated cracks, and he just chuckled and said "Yep!"


Macciza

15-May-2012
10:08:20 PM

Thanks Neil, the gear was placed on the first attempt - one rest due to calf-cramp.
Second attempt got it clean and yes will go back and do it placing the gear for my own sake.
Cogsy, Hmm, seeing how it is one of the most striking natural lines of that area, with already more history to it than most of the other lines will ever have, 'yep' I did enjoy the challenge and the reward.
"Yep" 'hehehe' is pretty much the standard response for anyone who obviously not only does not appreciate the real question but also probably would not understand the answer either.
Maybe you guys can confirm the grade for me sometime?

mabsydney

24-May-2012
3:11:42 PM

Nice work Macca. It was Matt and me that waited for you to get back to the ground.

I'm not a massive fan of choss, but trad rules for sure and there are far too many people who seem to feel compelled to put bolts into any old shit to get their name in a guide book and "create" a route - so well done for keeping the adventurous side of climbing going.


Macciza

8-Jul-2012
11:25:22 PM

Ok

Thanks - absolutely agree, yes there are ringbolt things on Lower Thumb Walls that you can climb, but Thumbs Down is certainly a 'line' and has been a marvellous adventure; really think it is important that these sort's of things are not lost or stolen . . .
And it's not that chossy actually, have seen far worse myself; so don't worry, have a hack . . .

Anyway, bit of a progress update . .

Got back recently and continuing in the same vein I aid soloed up to clean a bit of greenery out of what appears to be the crux, and found a hold or two (and a half) . . .

Got back today on the sharp end for a first free look at - got up to the crux but got shut down on. Interesting technical exposed bouldery moves across a difficult to attain cramped hanging headwall - lovingly protected by a very small cam, ~30m off the deck. Really need to get a bit of focus back for the next shot . . .

Cheers All
MM

There are 30 messages in this topic.