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Ozymandias Direct – Trip Report – May 2011 |
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23-May-2011 12:00:09 PM
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Did you treat the water in the creek before drinking?
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23-May-2011 12:54:56 PM
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Nope, no reported side effects. We also collected 5L of seepage water from base of climba and initially used it for cooking only but by day 3, having used all the other I probably drank 2L of it with no side effects.
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23-May-2011 1:30:49 PM
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Just as well, using that poop tube could have been rather interesting with the runs.
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23-May-2011 9:08:45 PM
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On 23/05/2011 Organ Pipe wrote:
>On 21/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>From close scrutiny of the vids, the graffiti that has appeared at the
>>Gledhill Bivvy was disappointing to see,
>
>Rod, I did a double take when I read this, and after re-reading it I assumed
>you'd meant newer bolts over the years, or perhaps the tie off loops on
>the carrots from previous parties (although I did think it was strange
>to use the word 'graffiti' to describe them).
>
>I couldn't let it go so watched the vid carefully pausing it every second
>or so. And low and behold someone has scratched "Aid climbing s..." (I
>assume it's "sucks") into the wall above the belay bolts.
>
>I spent a good 10 minutes there with Karl, and didn't even notice it!!!
>
>I agree it's a real shame.
... ~> You now know how closely I scrutinised your TR!
It is hard to imagine what the loser used, to scratch that onto the wall with.
If it was a free climber the hardest item they would have had with them would be a nut tool, and I doubt that would make much effect on hard granite (unless especially sharpened?), besides, anyone who can free that route I would expect to (likely?) have better ethics.
If it was a (jaded?) aid climber then they should be rightly condemned by peers, especially since the route has long been considered clean aid only.
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23-May-2011 9:19:29 PM
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On 23/05/2011 Wiiiillllllsoooon wrote:
>Nope, no reported side effects. We also collected 5L of seepage water from
>base of climba and initially used it for cooking only but by day 3, having
>used all the other I probably drank 2L of it with no side effects.
Welcome to Chockstone Phil. (I note this is your inaugral post!)☺
I have found the water quality from Crystal Brook to be good, even in summer base flow conditions.
I have also been dehydrated on that wall and once in such conditions was blessed with a thunderstorm, that caused some of the grungiest crud I have seen, to flow down some of the brown lichen streak areas, within reach of our belay at the time. My partner and I managed to collect some of it and savoured it with delight!
Apart from continueing to aid climb to this day, it did not have any side effectrs(truth in the typo?) that we are aware of ;-)
Heh, heh, heh.
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23-May-2011 11:04:00 PM
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On 23/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>... ~> You now know how closely I scrutinised your TR!
>
>It is hard to imagine what the loser used, to scratch that onto
>the wall with.
I'm with M9. I've read this TR untold times and still get psyched with each reading, (though missed the graffiti until M9's eagle eye alerted us to it's existence) and am saddened by the senseless defilement.
I feel a bit of vigilante justice is in order to name and shame the perp! What sort of reward would be necessary to have someone dob in the defiler of Ozy. Go on, dob in a mate; it's the Australian thing to do...
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23-May-2011 11:19:48 PM
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I kinda laugh, thinking that some poor sucker was talked into doing the route against their wishes..........and then got stuck on that belay for an eternity, hating life and the creeping leader. Bit of a shitty thing to do though.
Hey, great trip report..............maybe you guys could tone down all the "goal-oriented" crap though? It sounds like its inspired more by Tony Robbins than Royal Robbins.........real climbers don't focus on goals, they focus on goils..........and drugs and stuff!
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24-May-2011 8:35:46 AM
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Thanks everyone for the great feedback. I’m stoked to hear that some of you are going back for a second read or to view of the vids again. For me the whole point of contributing to this TR was to create a personal log I can refer back to and re-live the events of this awesome climb. Sure there are a lot of elements that could be cut out (lavender bags etc..) or written in a different way, but this is what happened and how I felt during this climb.
Enjoy the TR and I hope this encourages more attempts at this spectacular climb (and without the urge to graffiti the rock).
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24-May-2011 10:12:27 AM
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On 23/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 23/05/2011 Organ Pipe wrote:
>>On 21/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>I couldn't let it go so watched the vid carefully pausing it every second
>>or so. And low and behold someone has scratched "Aid climbing s..." (I
>>assume it's "sucks") into the wall above the belay bolts.
>>
>>I spent a good 10 minutes there with Karl, and didn't even notice it!!!
>>
>>I agree it's a real shame.
>... ~> You now know how closely I scrutinised your TR!
>
>It is hard to imagine what the loser used, to scratch that onto
>the wall with.
>
>If it was a free climber the hardest item they would have had with them
>would be a nut tool, and I doubt that would make much effect on hard granite
>(unless especially sharpened?), besides, anyone who can free that route
>I would expect to (likely?) have better ethics.
Not to mention, if they were freeclimbers they probably wouldn't know...
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24-May-2011 10:48:25 AM
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Bardboy, don't change anything. The TR reads beautifully and the little details are what really make the story and give it some color. Lavender in this case;)
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24-May-2011 10:54:03 AM
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Colour*
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24-May-2011 11:04:40 AM
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Great read thanks for posting.
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24-May-2011 1:19:52 PM
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On 24/05/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>Colour*
Colour? Color! ;)
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24-May-2011 2:04:35 PM
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On 24/05/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 24/05/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>>Colour*
>
>Colour? Color!
Couloir...
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24-May-2011 6:05:21 PM
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On 24/05/2011 PDRM wrote:
>On 24/05/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>>On 24/05/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>>>Colour*
>>
>>Colour? Color!
>
>Couloir...
Coulibiac...;)
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24-May-2011 6:21:22 PM
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Mike!
Your learning to ambi spell!
How do you do it?
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24-May-2011 6:24:09 PM
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Coolabah!
Aren't aid climbers supposed to drink it straight from the bladder?
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24-May-2011 8:29:06 PM
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On 24/05/2011 Lee C wrote:
>On 23/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>besides, anyone who can free that route
>>I would expect to (likely?) have better ethics.
>
>Not to mention, if they were freeclimbers they probably wouldn't know...
How to bag out* aid climbers?
;-)
PS; I read of plenty of capable free climbers who still dabble in the odd bit of aid!
(*Re bagging out; ... Just to be clear; I am not meaning you/your trusted mates, but the 'loser' as mentioned earlier).
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24-May-2011 8:44:17 PM
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On 24/05/2011 shortman wrote:
>Mike!
>
>Your learning to ambi spell!
>
>How do you do it?
It helps being really, really, ridiculously good looking. That and Orange mocha frappucino's.
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24-May-2011 11:10:11 PM
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On 24/05/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>
>How to bag out* aid climbers?
>;-)
>
>
Ha ha, no, just joking! funnily enough the free version doesn't go to the gledhill bivi
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